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‘THE CLUB-ROOT DISEASE. 
Its Effect on Cabbages. 
HOW TO DEAL WITH IT, 
The disease known as club-root in 
cabbages appears to be universal. 
the cause of much damage in local market 
gardens, and it is equally destructive in 
In the course of 
aninteresting article on the subject, the 
‘Michigan Farmer,’ one of the leading 
American horticultural papers, states that 
the disease is funguous inits nature. It 
America and Europe. 
is, however, of so low an origin that it 
has not been definitely determined 
whether it is of animal or vegetable life- 
It attacks the entire crucifera family 
(plants bearing their seed in pods), as 
the entire cabbage family, cauliflower, 
Brusseis sprouts, wild muscard, etc. The 
roots of the plant are the seat of the 
disease, and it is noticeable by the 
formation of lumps or bunches varying 
from the size of a small pea to several 
inches in diameter, Slighter attacks, as 
those oceurring late in the season, are 
not always fatal to the plant; but such 
cases are only exceptional, for, generally 
speaking, it means death to whatever it 
seizes upon. 
— Combating the Disease, — 
Whenever ground becomes once 
infested it is very difficult to eradicate 
the disease, and in Many once famous 
cabbage-growing districts it has caused 
the almost total ruin of the industry. 
Acidity of soil is considered to be the 
ause of club-root. The condition of the 
soil should be ascertained at the outset. 
This may be done with blue litmus paper, 
which is obtainable at any chemist’s shop 
at a trifling cost. The litmus paper 
must be kept in a perfectly dry place and 
away from the light. In handling take 
hold only of the extreme tip of the strip, 
as rough usage by the fingers prevents 
full action of the acid upon the paper. 
Select specimens of soil from various 
portions of the field or patch, as the acid 
condition may be far more strongly 
marked in some portions than in others. 
It requires but a small amount of soil for - 
It is, 
each test ; and, if preferable, the testing 
can be done in the open field, provided 
the soil is damp enough. In either case? 
make an opening in the soil with a knife 
blade or in any other convenient way, 
and insert the strip of paper endwise in 
the opening, pressing the soil lightly 
together again. 
Let it remain thus for an hour or two, 
then withdraw carefully and rinse several 
times in clear cold water, and allow it to 
dry. Jf a distinct red color entirely 
takes the place of the blue coloring, then 
itis evident that the soil is acid, and 
requires liming; and the brighter the 
coloring the more acid is the soil. 
This acidity of soil is what must be 
corrected. It is a pretty well established 
fact that this is the chief cause of the 
di ease, and once removed the trouble 
willin the main care for itself, or, at 
least, will not invade localities where it is 
not already present, The first step is to 
prove the acid condition of the soil. If 
itis bad in this respect use air slaked 
lime to.the extent of 2500 or 3000 pounds 
to the acre. 
—reating Infected Soil.— 
In gardens where the disease has taken 
a firm hold it will be necessary to gather 
up every infected head or stump and 
burn or boil them. Do not feed them, as 
it is said spores will live and be farther 
spread in the manure. If allowed to lie 
about, the rains will carry the disease, 
and by next year the germs will be ready 
to gain footing in other localities. Every 
vestige of diseased plants or roots should 
be destroyed by burning or boiling. The 
germs are often carried on the tools with 
which infected soil has been worked, It 
is better, if possible, not to use these 
implements in other fields, or, at least, 
until, thoroughly cleaned. It is the 
safest all-round practice to give a heavy 
application of lime and seed down at 
once. If this is not practical, then grow 
crops entirely distinct from those liable 
to the disease. 
In America it has been found that the 
treatment described has reduced the 
ravages of the disease. It is necessary 
that every grower should join in a con- 
certed effort to stamp out the disease. 
Tt means an expensive struggle to cope 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
——————————— 
April 1, 1909 
with it once it gains a foothold, and in 
this, as in most other cases, the safety 
lies in thorough preventive measures. 
Another important point is that none 
of the same family crops should succeed 
themselves under any circumstances: 
Neither should they immediately alter- 
nate with any others belonging to the 
same general With — strict 
adherence to the general precautions and 
family. 
Measures as above, there is (concludes. 
the paper) not much to be feared. 
The Latest Freak —Cucumber-. 
Orange. 
An orange-cucumber, 
orange, is a freak combination raised by 
Mr. Howard S. Hill. 
vegetable resulted from an experiment 
tried several weeks ago. At that time an 
orange tree was in full bloom in Mr, 
Hill’s cucumber hot-house, at the same 
time the blossom of the cucumber vines 
first appeared. Mr. Hill transferred the 
pollen from the orange blossoms to 
several cucumber flowers. The first 
appearance of the fruit was the same as 
that of an ordinary infant cucumber, but 
as the fruit grew the result of the inocu: 
lation became apparent. The cucamber, . 
instead of lengthening out, remained 
round like an orange, with the orange 
bloom scar, but the skin was that of a 
cucumber with the same corruptions. 
When ripened the new product assumed 
a bright orange color, and frou a distance 
appeared the same as an orange. Mr. 
Hill thinks that the new fruit will prove 
a favorite, as the taste of the orange and. 
cucumber blend in an excellent manner 
and make a pleasing combination.— 
‘ Popular Science Siftings.’ 
STRANG & CO., 
Tailors — 
Mercers, 
30 Gawler Place) 
or cucumber- 
The new fruit or 
