May 1, 190% 
The Orchard. 
Hints on Planting Fruit Trees 
Given favorable weather conditions, a 
‘sufficiency, not a super-abundance, of rain 
to render the soil in fit condition, the 
operation of planting should be in full 
swing during this month, Only in wet, 
‘cold districts is it advisable to delay 
planting untilspring. The soil being both 
‘warm and moist, the roots will take kindly 
to their new quarters, and will go on 
forming before the depth of winter over- 
takes them. 
Assuming that the soil has been 
‘thoroughly cultivated, and that the 
‘grower has made a study of his area, that 
he is familiar with all the varying nature 
of his soil, and the variety of sites and 
aspects his orchard offers. Assuming, too 
that he has some acquaintance with the 
individual tastes and predilections of tha 
‘subjects he is about to plant to guide him 
in the matter of their disposal, we can pass 
on toa few suggestions connected with 
‘the all important matter of planting fruit 
‘trees. Choose in the first 
healthy, straight-stemmed young trees 
neither overgrown nor stunted, with a 
‘good root system, and every indication of. 
healthy development. The roots m. st on 
No account be allowed to become dry, the 
‘trees should, therefore, not be lifted too 
soon, They must not be exposed to the 
air whilst awaiting their turn to be planted 
but should be protected by straw or 
hhessian. Damaged and broken roots 
‘should be cut back with a sharp clean cut 
to a healthy part, which will induce new 
€rowth to spring. Every plant should 
instance 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
have a perfect wreath of roots. As we 
desire the headgrowth to be perfectly 
symmetrical, so we must ensure an equal 
distribution of the roots, Avoid crowd- 
ing them allin one direction. The few 
main roots should spring at regular dis- 
tances from the base of the trunk, and the 
fibrous growth should be vvenly disposed 
between. Carefully disentangle the roots 
if at all matted, and spread ont in layers 
to their fullextent. If the tree has come 
from the nursery with a faulty root sys- 
tem, give the side deficient in roots the 
most favorable aspect, and do everything 
to encourage an equal growth. 
The hole in which they are placed must 
be wider than the length of the roots to 
allow of their being spread out to their 
full extent. The bottom of the hole 
should be convex so that when the tree 
is placed on the slight elevation in the 
centre, the roots will have a gentle in- 
clination downwards. Each layer of roots 
should be covered with a layer of light 
soil, Care should be taken not to throw 
it in heavily and so to jam the roots, but 
with just a light sprinkie to sift through 
and fill in the interstices. This soil 
should be brought for the purpose, and. 
should bea light loam combined with 
vegetable mould and wood ashes. When 
covered make the soil firm, but do not 
tread if inclined to be at all heavy and 
stiff. 
The soil mark on the stem is generally 
a good guide as to the depth at which the 
young tree should be planted. The top 
layer of roots should not be covered with 
more than an inch or two ofsoil. Young 
trees want careful staking, as they are 
liable to injury if blown ‘about by rough 
winds. The stake should be driven in 
before planting, and the base dipped in 
creosote or tar. 
Prune the head of the tree as well as 
the roots before planting, and give the 
weaker side the more favorable aspect. 
Three or four well disposed shoots are 
sufficient toform the foundation of a 
symmetrical and profitable head. — 
In planting a new orchard the square 
style is the most economical and. satis- 
factory to adopt. The distance apart at 
which trees should be planted naturally 
aries according to the nature of the soil 
25 
and the native habit of thetree. We have - 
to consider the breadth and height to 
which a tree will attain under given con- 
ditions, the necessity of a free admission 
of light and air of facilitating cultural 
operations. Ifa tree spreads twelve feet 
—that is, six feet each way from the 
trunk, eighteen feet should be the mini- 
mum distance at which to plant. In the 
case of pears, plums, apricots, and- 
somewhat vigorous of 
growth, from eighteen to twenty-four feet 
should be the distance. With cherries 
quinces, and peaches, from sixteen to 
twenty feet is a good average distance. A 
free space of six feet at least should be 
allowed between the extremities of the 
trees. 
apples, being 
The importance of providing a perfect 
“drainage system at this season should be 
fully realised. The benefits are so obvious. 
The accumulation of water in the soil ex- 
cludes air and prevents its mineral 
ingredients being assimilated by the 
plants. Moreover, the heat from the 
sun. instead of warming the soil and 
promoting growth, has to expend all its 
precious powers on evaporation. (Where 
drainage is provided the rain is enabled to. 
pass freely through the soil, and with it 
The 
system of drainage depends upon the 
nature of the soil and the class of 
crops. Ina cold, wet district anda heavy. 
soil deep drains are best, as the soil is then 
partially dried and warmed to a greater: 
depth. From three to four feet is a fair 
average depth. They may he placed 
forty feet apart, or from four to eight 
drains to the acre. Harthernware cylinder 
pipes are the most durable; these should 
be packed, so to speak, in brush wood or 
stone rubble to prevent them being 
choked by silt. If the land has been well 
graded draining is considerably  facili- 
tated. One must, before deciding on a 
system, consider the contour ot the land, 
take the highest and lowest levels, choose 
the lowest point for the outlet, and 
ascertain the best gradient. A sufficient 
fall should be provided to enable the 
the drains to clear themselves easily. 
Drains should not run up and down, but 
across hill sides. Orchard soils should 
air and several beneficial gases. 
