10 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
March, 1910 
able to plant Narcissus bulbs promis- 
They dislike the 
heavy dressings of manure that the latter 
must have, and th» constant soaking of 
water in summer is more or less injurious. 
Moreover they are greatly in the way of 
the autumn culivating, and hinder the 
progress of the Bulbs, more 
especially the Narcissus, should be 
relegated to the kitchen garden or rear 
garden. The blooms may be a temptation 
to the ‘bottle boys’ and similar visitors, 
but happily we can protect ourselves 
from such depredations by picking the 
flowers in the full-bud stage, allowing 
them to open indoors. 
cuously in the borders. 
spade. 
In allotting 
them aspace to themsolves. we can have 
full control of the soil, and can renew it 
with little difficulty as often as the health 
of the bulb requires it; in most cases 
every two or three years. The soil should 
be deep, and pure. Black sand is favorable 
and an admixture of sea sand is said to 
be very acceptable to the bulb. Ifa soil 
is made for them with manure it must 
first have all its stimulating properties 
taken out by some gross feeding crop. 
It will then be in a condition to receive 
the bulbs. A cool 
greatest importance. 
subsoil is of the 
The rule in plan- 
ting bulbs is three times their own depth 
in the soil, but it is better err on the side 
of deep than shallow planting in this 
climate, except perhaps in the case of 
a heavy soil. When it comes to making 
a selection of Narcissus for planting it is 
amore difficult matter. The varieties of 
the Daffodil section especially are so 
numerous and beautiful as to be bewilder- 
ing. Daffodil shows have their uses in 
familiarising us with the various types 
and helping our choice, It is always as 
well to note on those occasions any that 
seem to recommend themselves to our 
individual tastes, Another good way, 
though, perhaps, a little more extrava- 
gant, is to’ buy pots of flowering 
Narcissus that the florists ofler in the 
Season; then we know exactly what we 
are getting. This is advisable, more 
especially in the caso of choice varieties, 
They can be transferred from the pot to 
the bulb bed without their ever feeling 
the removal. 
Amaryllis Formosissma. 
Modification of Colours in 
Plants. 
Professor H. Kraemer, in reviewing 
tke work that has been accomplished in 
the control of color in plants, referred to 
the factors which influence the color in 
flowers and yvave the results of his own 
experiments, which were begun in the 
Autumn of 1904, and have been continaed 
up to the present time. Various soils 
were experimented with, including an 
artificial soil, and sand to which a special 
nutrient was added. The chemicals used 
to modify the color principles were sup- 
plied to thejplants in the form of solutions 
of varying strength, or added to the soil 
in solid form, solution gradually taking 
place. Probably the most striking result 
obtained by the use of chemicals wes the 
production of a red color in the petals of 
the white Rose, Kaiserin Victoria. The 
red occured in the basal portion of the 
petals, and was produced in the flowers of 
plants which were supplied with potassium 
hydrate, potassium carbonate, calcium 
hydrate, and lead acetate Blue flowers 
were produced by the red-flowering forin 
Hydrangea (H. Otaksa), growing in both 
sand and garden soil, when supplied with 
potassium and aluminnm sulphate, and 
calcium hydrate. 
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