18 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
December 1, 190% 
Growing Radishes. 
There is no advantage in securing great 
quantities of large sized Radishes. A 
small and constant supply of crisp» 
delicately-flavored bulbs should be the 
only aim. When making up beds of 
manure and teaves for forcing Potatoes, 
Carrots, ete, in July and August sow 
a few Radishes. When the Potatoes, for 
example, are planted in rows 15 inches 
apart, arow of Radishes may be sown 
between, and they will be ready for use 
and cleared off before the Potato crop in 
any way interferes with them. In Carrot 
frames the same thing may be done, and 
sometimes a Radish seed is dropped in 
here and there among the Carrots, as 
they will push up and be cleared off 
before the Carrots require much top 
room. Thus young spring Radishes are 
obtained without any special outlay or 
extra attention. Many, however, who 
try to grow early Radishes in this way 
make mistakes. One of these is sowing 
the seed too thickly. Under such cir- 
cumstances, when the plants come up 
they area mat at top and bottom, and 
when this is the case useful roots are 
never formed. Thinning out some of the 
plants as soon as they can be handled is 
one way of avoiding this, but it is a 
wasteful way ; the better plan is to sow 
thinly. One seed every six inches or so 
will give a much finer crop and better 
results altogether than close sowing. 
Many, doubtless, wonder why their 
Radishes do not all bulb, but allowing 
them to grow too close together is, as a 
rule, the cause of this. Many are most 
particular, too, in getting their seeds in 
and the crop brought to maturity; but 
after the usable part of it has “been 
gathered neglect follows, and where 
Radishes have been raised in a Potato or 
Carrot bed, it is no uncommon thing to 
see worthless Radish-tops overshadowing 
everything by the time the other crops 
should have been at their best, Culti- 
vators should always be particular in 
clearing out all the Radishes as soon as 
they become too old for use, and any 
which do not bulb jearly may be thrown 
away altogether. — 
In making up a special bed for early 
Radishes, a very shallow bed of fer- 
menting material is sufficient ; about one 
foot in depth is enough, and six inches of 
soil should be put on the top of this. 
The seed should be sown broadcast, very 
thin, and it fhonld not be covered more 
than half an inch deep. 
_ Select spots need not be chosen for 
Radishes in this State, and they can be 
sown during every menth of the year. 
They will do almost anywhere, their only 
requirements being a firm, rich, cool 
soil. Without this, especially in summer, 
the roots wiil become hot and stringy 
before they are well developed, and the 
period of their usefulness will be very 
short. 
In general culture some may prefer 
having the seed in rows; others may sow 
broadeast, and good Radishes may be had 
both ways. 
At no time should the seed be put 
more than half an inch below the surface, 
and the soil should always be trodden 
firmly over it, as this induces the plants 
to bulb quicker and better than when in 
loose material. 
Dates of sowing and quantities to pnt 
in at each time cannot be given to suit 
all; every cultivator must be guided by 
his own requirements in this respect. 
Cucumbers Turning Yellow. 
This is sometimes due to defective root 
action, brought on either by too heavy 
waterings or unsuitable soil. When 
leaf-soil or much dung is employed, the 
roots are apt to come into an unhealthy 
state, It is teat to use good loam, 
lightening it, if heavy, with a little leaf- 
soil, and apply the manure as a top 
dressing when the plants come into full 
growth, and plenty of active fibres are 
running near the surface. Cucumbers 
should never be heavily watered; the soil 
should be maintained in a moist condi- 
tion. Do not allow it to become quite 
dry, but never pour in any great quantity 
of water at a time, as this causes u tem- 
porary cessation of root-activity, and 
checks growth. Deformed fruit are often 
produced in this way. 
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