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' GROW HYACINTHS ON GLASSES 
HOW TO GROW PERFECT FLOWERS IN WATER 
Growing bulbous plants indoors, in distilled or rain water, is a hobby which fills 
one with wonder and delight. It is always new, always thrilling. An occasional 
failure spurs one to a new start, never blaming the bulb or the plant, for one 
knows that if it were planted in soil outdoors, it would grow and bloom profusely. 
To start growing Hyacinths in water, one can buy suitable and attractive glasses, 
made for this purpose, but all sorts of jars, pots, small vases can be used. Care 
must be taken that the receptacles have a good base so that they cannot easily 
| topple over when the plants are full grown. 
_ The bulbs had best be bought from a reputable dealer in horticultural products 
and one should state that the Hyacinths are wanted for culture in water. This 
same dealer will gladly show you or sell you typical Hyacinth glasses, The best 
size of Hyacinthsbulbs for water culture seems to be about 18 to 19 centimeters 
in circumference. One can use smaller bulbs, which produce smaller flowers. 
After November 20th one starts placing the bulbs on glasses. The latter should 
_be rinsed and then filled with clean water. Before placing the bulb on the glass, 
it should be freed from all loose torn skins and the hollow in the base of the bulb, 
or root plate, must be freed from all dried roots, bits of soil, etc., so that no decay 
_is likely to develop. A few strokes with a soft brush removes any loose dirt or dust. 
| The bulbs are then placed on the glass so that the root plate is very close to the 
| water but does not touch it, After a week or ten days, the glasses should be 
| looked over and, if necessary, some water added, keeping it a 4 of an inch below 
r the bulb, because the root plate should remain fairly dry. The evaporating water 
_ dampens the root plate just enough to set the tiny root points in action, and soon 
_ one sees the roots being sent down deeper and deeper into the water. All this time 
| the glasses have been kept in a cool dark place. On the floor in a cold corner of 
| the cellar with a box over them to keep the light away, or in an airy, dark closet 
_ of an unheated room, the Hyacinths will make good roots and topgrowth. In a 
| warm room or warm closet conditions for root-growth and top-growth are un- 
| favorable and failure is often the result. If a good place is available, all that needs 
_ to be done is to look at the glasses once in a while to add some water, or if the 
_ water has become dirty by accident, to refresh it. If one follows these directions, 
| failure to start bulbs growing nicely is practically impossible. 
| When the roots have reached the bottom of the glass, the topgrowth starts. A 
| big fat promising bud begins to rise from the center of the bulb, usually about 
- 6—8 weeks after the start of the culture. Now is the time to show patience and 
_ self control. For by this time real winter has come, impatience grows, and one is 
' anxious to take the glasses from the cool dark place to the light and warmth. 
| Just at this point a mistake can easily ruin the plan. The glasses can be trans- 
ferred to a warm light place only when the buds are from 214 to 314 inches 
| above the bulb. It is better to wait a little longer, than to apply light and heat too 
soon, All bulbs which one sees in homes, with the flower way down deep be- 
tween the grean leaves, making no progress, have been brought into light and heat 
_ too soon. As a result, the leaves grow, but the flower refuses to rise. This ,,half 
result” is solely due to applying light and heat too soon. If one leaves the glasses 
© and dark untill the buds, fat and yellow, are about 3 inches high, then the 
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