tree, and partly fill each hole with complete ‘‘field” fertilizer, using 
as high nitrogen (first figure) as possible. We suggest 7-7-7 or 6-8-6, 
but any good trunk or commercial mix can be used. Use 1 at. (2 lbs.) 
for each year since tree has been set in field, as a general rule, and 
punch holes as far out as limbs have spread. Fertilizer may be spread 
on top of ground and then spaded in, care being taken to avoid con- 
tact of fertilizer with trunk or main root of tree. However, this method 
will encourage growth of weeds and grass, and will necessitate more 
cultivation than will “plugging’’, described above. 
WATERING TREES in dry seasons after planting, beginning in mid- 
March and continuing until September, promotes more growth of trees, 
but is not ordinarily vitally necessary except in case of the larger 
sizes of trees or in case of very light, sandy lands. Dishwater, septic 
outlets or other home waste water is usually fine for them. In newly 
planted orchards where watering is impracticable, large pasteboard 
boxes may be flattened out and placed around the base of tree, with 
just enough soil placed on edges to prevent blowing away, the card- 
board being arranged to cup or funnel water in toward the tree. Thus. 
abundant water is allowed to pass to tree, but weeds and grass are 
smothered, and no hoeing is necessary. 
PROTECT AND (IF NOT MULCHED AS ABOVE SUGGESTED) 
CULTIVATE the trees. It is a good idea to set 3 small posts or slabs 
around each tree to avoid breakage from plow “‘singletrees” or live- 
stock. Where stock are allowed to graze around trees, wire may be 
placed around the trees so that foliage is protected, until trees grow 
above reach of stock. After that time, cattle ranging under trees in 
growing season will keep ALL low-growing twigs and foliage very 
effectively pruned off, as thev will eat all leaves within reach. 
ONE PRACTICAL METHOD OF PROTECTION from mule or trac- 
tor cultivation injury in a field is to stick a long piece of lumber “edg- 
ing’ across the tree at an angle, pointed DOWN tree row, and drive 
well into ground. Then drive another piece of edging in similar man- 
ner on opposite side of tree, nointed in opposite directing, or ‘‘UP”’ 
the row; then tie or bind both pieces of edging and tree together, 
just where they cross. No mule or tractor driver is apt to risk impal- 
ing himself on this “‘lance’”’ of edging, and if it is sufficiently long, 
it will be out of reach, anyhow. Crop rows may then be lined up 
parallel to the tree rows. 
REGULAR CULTIVATION BY HOEKING OR PLOWING is essential, 
unless growth of other nlants is prohibited by some other method. 
Moderate amounts of well-rotted stable manure or preferab!'v chicken 
manure may be placed in a band not closer than 6” from base of tree, 
beginning several davs after trees are planted, and mav be re-anplied 
at one-month intervals from 20 March to 1 July. 
TREES MAY BEGIN TO BEAR 1 to 8 years after planting, but larger 
sizes—and especially some particular varieties—usually bear first. We 
believe that it is both wise and economical to use as large a tree as 
the soil and site conditions (and economic conditions) will allow. On 
extremely dry, sandy soil (no clay, or clay 30” or deeper) do not use 
trees larger than 6-7 ft., or 7-8 ft. at most; and cut back or prune off 
about 1/3 of above-ground portion, or “‘top’’. It is a very good prac- 
tice to cut back all sizes, but trees 8-10 ft. and 10-12 ft. should AL- 
WAYS be cut back when planted. These two fine sizes should be used 
for orchard plantings only where soil moisture and soil organic con- 
tent are ideal: but they are excellent for use in home and small home- 
orchard plantings. Under practically all conditions, these sizes should 
be well watered once or twice a week in dry seasons, March to Sep- 
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