Fertilizing — If one grows rhododendrons in soil comprised mostly of 
woods mold and provides ample mulch, the need for fertilizer is reduced. 
In any case it is a good practice to apply cottonseed meal, well-rotted cow 
manure or PlantGro right after the original mulch is laid — that is, about 
30 days after the rhododendron was transplanted — and repeated every 
spring thereafter. One may be guided as to the amount to apply by the 
relative fertility of the soil and by the size of the plant. It is more dan- 
gerous to fertilize too much than too little. Never fertilize after July 1. 
Insect Control — Rhododendrons are subject to attack by the azalea 
lacewing fly and the red spider. Any dust or spray remedy used on azaleas 
applies to infestations on rhododendrons as well. Frequent syringing in 
the late afternoon, the water being directed underneath the foliage, will 
keep them under control. A small beetle, which comes out at night in 
June and early July, may feed on the new growth of the plant. Spraying 
with a solution made of calcium arsenate (or arsenate of lead) and de- 
hydrated lime may be used to control this insect. Use 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls 
each of arsenate and lime to the gallon of water. 
Weeding -- Any weeds which grow up under the plant should be 
pulled out, never hoed out. 
Flower Removal — After the flowers have wilted they should imme- 
diately be broken off. 
Tag Girdling — Wired tags, used to identify the variety, should be at- 
tached loosely so that the wire will not girdle the stem of the plant as 
it grows. 
Leaf Dropping, Leaf Curling 
At times some leaves of a healthy rhododendron plant will turn yel- 
low and drop off. The shedding of some of its foliage is natural to the 
plant and ordinarily is no cause for alarm. During very cold weather 
the leaves may curl up and hang down. That behavior, too, is natural to 
the plant. 
O 
HUMOLD 
HuMo_p is our well-known humus-forming mold which is used mostly 
for growing rhododendrons and azaleas, although it is excellent, mixed 
with topsoil, for growing many other plants. It is chiefly fibrous wood- 
land soil, taken from our oak and pine groves, to which mosspeat has 
been added to increase its capacity to hold moisture, and enough grit to 
insure its good drainage. 
In planting rhododendrons and azaleas, HUMOLD may be used alone 
or mixed with an equal amount, or less, of good loamy soil that is free 
of lime, ashes or mortar. 
q “Humold has proved for several years an excellent transplanting medium wherever 
I have used it.”—Mrs. Chas. A. C., Atlanta. 
