Fertilizers: Natural fertilizers, such a well-rotted cow manure, 
are ideal. A handful of nitrogenous fertilizer scattered over every 
few feet, a pound of wood ashes per every twenty square feet, 
and such applications repeated two or three times during the 
growing season, will help to keep the lilies strong and healthy. 
If your soil and water are alkaline, then two or three times dur- 
ing the growing season scatter a pinch or two of agricultural 
sulphur over the soil surface and water it in. Peat moss, being 
slightly acid, is good for lilies. It provides an ideal medium for 
the stem roots when used as a mulch. 
On Arrival: Lily bulbs are never completely dormant. They must 
be received as soon as possible after digging, hence orders should 
be placed with your dealer as early as possible. If slightly limp 
after their long trip, place them in wet peat moss for a few days. 
They will soon freshen up and should then be planted immediately. 
Never plant new bulbs where other lilies have failed to grow and 
never plant in heavy, soggy soil. They can not be treated like 
tulip or daffodil bulbs which can be dried out and go completely 
dormant. Drainage is paramount. 
Pot Culture: The soil mixture must be loose and porous. Two 
parts sandy loam, one of leafmold, and one of sand is good. An 
inch of gravel should be placed in the bottom for drainage. Fill 
the pot half full of soil mix, add a handful of sand, set the bulb 
on the sand, then surround with more sand. The pot is then 
filled with soil mix, watered, labelled, staked, and placed in a 
cool place until spring. 
Spraying: Control aphids and fungus diseases with the same 
sprays used for roses. 
Lily Book: For more information on all lilies, their culture, 
history and propagation, read Jan de Graaf’s “The New Book of 
Lilies,” profusely illustrated in color. Published by Barrows and 
Company; available from your bookseller at $3.50. 
