OREGON BULB FARMS 
GRESHAM, OREGON 
Spring sales of lily bulbs became a general prac- 
tice when imported bulbs began to arrive in this 
country in January with the result that there was 
no choice as to planting time. Now that we are 
able to deliver American-grown, healthy lilies in 
October, we strongly advise you to make every ef- 
fort to dispose of the lilies in the fall. This means 
passing on this information to your customers who 
have been inthe habit of planting lilies in the spring. 
A few varieties, such as our Mid-Century hybrids, 
keep especially well in storage and, should the trade 
demand spring delivery in any appreciable quan- 
tity, we shall arrange to make this service available 
to our customers For the present we feel that good 
performance is more important than some addi- 
tional sales. 
Cultural Instructions for Lilies 
Soils and Location: Lilies must have perfect drain- 
age such as a gentle slope can provide. Air drainage 
too is important, for a good breeze can keep many 
garden pests and diseases away. If your site is level 
and the soil heavy, then prepare raised beds for the 
bulbs. Take care not to damage the roots in planting. 
Sun or Shade: Lilies need sunlight, at least until 
2 P.M. Filtered sunlight or semi-shade may bring 
out the more delicate colors, but they tend to make 
weak stems and soft flowers. Do not plant near 
ee walls, walks or drives that reflect sunlight or 
eat. 
Depth of Planting: L. candidum, “Cascade Strain” 
and ‘White Elf” should be planted with not more 
than one inch of settled soil over the top of the 
bulbs. All others need not more than four inches 
of soil over them. 
Mulch and Groundcover: Lilies are gross feeders 
and root deeply. They need a porous, well-aerated 
soil, rich in humus and well-balanced plant food. 
They like a good mulch of well-rotted cow manure, 
rich compost or decaying leafmold, and this can 
be applied several times during the growing 
season. The mulch keeps the soil cool, discourages 
weed growth and eliminates the need for surface 
cultivation which might hurt the stem roots. Shal- 
low-rooted ground cover keeps the ground shaded 
and is beneficial. Do not expect your lilies to com- 
pete with strong-growing perennials or shrubs. 
Cutting Flowers: Like all plants, lilies need their 
stems and foliage to build for next year’s growth. 
Cutting the flowers only, preventing them from 
setting seed, is beneficial. Cutting the foliage is 
harmful in direct proportion to the amount taken. 
Cutting stems with foliage year after year will defi- 
nitely kill the plant. 
Fertilizers: Natural fertilizers, such as well- 
rotted cow manure, are ideal. A handful of bal- 
anced fertilizer scattered over every few feet, a 
Page 34 
pound of wood ashes per every twenty square feet, 
and such applications repeated two or three times 
during the growing season, will help to keep the 
lilies strong and healthy. If your soil and water are 
alkaline, then two or three times during the grow- 
ing season scatter a pinch or two of agricultural 
sulphur over the soil surface and water it in. Peat 
moss, being slightly acid, is good for lilies. It pro- 
vides an ideal medium for the stem roots when used 
as a mulch. 
On Arrival: Lily bulbs are never completely dor- 
mant. They must be received as soon as possible 
after digging, hence orders should be placed with 
your dealer as early as possible. If slightly limp 
after their long trip, place them in wet peat moss 
for a few days. They will soon freshen up and 
should then be planted immediately. Never plant 
new bulbs where other lilies have failed to grow 
and never plant in heavy, soggy soil. They cannot 
be treated like tulip or daffodil bulbs which can be 
dried out and go completely dormant. Drainage 
is paramount. 
Pot Culture: The soil mixture must be loose and 
porous. Two parts sandy loam, one of leafmold, and 
one of sand is good. An inch of gravel should be 
placed in the bottom for drainage. Fill the pot half 
full of soil mix, add a handful of sand, set the bulb 
on the sand, then surround with more sand. The 
pot is then filled with soil mix, watered, labeled, 
staked, and placed in a cool place until spring. 
Spraying: Control aphids and fungus diseases with 
the same sprays used for roses. 
Lily Book: For more information on all lilies, 
their culture, history and propagation, read Jan 
de Graaff’s ‘““The New Book of Lilies,” profusely 
illustrated in color. Published by Barrows and Com- 
pany; available from your bookseller at $3.50. 
Reprints of these cultural instructions are available 
from us for $10 per 1000. 
