P. O. TATE NURSERY ROUTE 3, TYLER, TEXAS 
ee BE nling | nstructions 
Approved by Texas Rose Research Foundation, Inc., for information of rose 
growers everywhere. January, 1948. 
LOCATION FOR PLANTING: Select a place where there is sun at least 
half the day, not under trees or next to hedges. 
TIME OF PLANTING: Plant during the winter months unless the ground 
is frozen. Late fall or early spring planting is preferred in cold climates. 
PREPARATION OF BEDS: 
1. Remove grass, weeds or other plants for a width of 4 feet if a single row 
is to be planted; 6 feet wide if 2 rows; 8 feet wide if for 3 rows. For 
convenience in caring for plants and cutting of blooms, it is best to have 
not more than 3°rows together. For further planting, allow a walkway of 
about 5 feet to the next row or series of rows. 
2. Dig trench 12 to 15 inches deep and 2 feet wide for each row. 
3. Place 3 to 5 inches of rotted manure (cattle preferred) in the bottom of 
the trench. 
4. Add 2 or 3 inches of soil on top of the manure or enough so the lowest 
branches and union with the understock will be just above the soil level 
when the planting is complete. 
CARE OF BUSHES ON ARRIVAL: Unpack and soak the roots in water 
for about an hour. If bushes cannot be planted immediately, dig a trench 
and bury roots-down in soil except for top inch or two of the canes. Pack 
soil by tamping and wet down if soil is dry. Plant bushes as soon as possible. 
SETTING OUT THE BUSHES: 
Soak the roots in water for about an hour. 
Trim the roots to not more than 12 inches long. 
Prune the tops back to 6 to 8 inches from the union. 
Bushes may be spaced as close as 18 inches apart in a row. 
Place a mound of soil under the base of each bush so the roots slant down- 
ward into the trench. Cover the roots with soil and pack slightly by tamp- 
or tramping. Water if the soil is dry. 
6. Mound the soil over the union and around the branches for the winter, but 
rake the mound away just before new growth starts. 
PRUNING ESTABLISHED BUSHES: General pruning should be done in 
late winter or just before the buds start swelling. Prune out all dead wood, 
but remove only enough top growth to keep the bushes in size and shape. The 
less pruning of healthy plants, the more flowers there will be. Make the 
pruning cuts close to joints or just above buds. (This is superior to using 
paints or pastes over wounds). The climbers which blooms just in the spring 
should be pruned only right after the bloom period. 
FERTILIZING: Apply in the spring about the time growth starts and repeat 
every 6 to 8 weeks as the growth requires. Late summer and fall applications 
