¢€ 
recently all peats being used have been treated with 
one tablespoonful of sulphur to 5 gallons of any of 
the “mixes”. The sulphur acts much more slowly, 
which is probably desirable, unless a quick treatment 
should become necessary. The addition of 1 lb. to 
100 sq. ft. of outside bed surface, of sulphur, might 
be good pH insurance. That would be particularly 
true if you use city water. 
(GROWING PAINS continued from page 21) 
Imported peats have one decided superiority over 
domestic peats. There may be others, too, but they 
are particularly low in pH. Most domestic peats test 
about 5.75 as compared to imported peats around 4.50 
to 4.75. Domestic peats are decidely short of phos- 
phorus, but exactly where the phosphorus level 
should be to obtain best results is a question. Some 
40 experimental flats to which various amounts of 
phosphate have been added are under test at present, 
and will be reported upon later. Sand supplements 
should be tested for acidity. Many are definitely 
alkaline. All domestic peats tested are very high in 
nitrogen, and additions of nitrogens might be of 
doubtful value. Most domestic peats are slightly 
short cf potash, but none were found to be critically 
short; and while a few tests are being run with 
potash additions, we are inclined to believe that they 
will not show much improvement over the untreated 
samples. Magnesium appears short in most of the 
peats, but this is easily corrected by one or two 
waterings per year with a tablespoonful of Epsom 
Salts per gallon of water. That should be ample for 
a single treatment. 
Sawdust 
Some nurserymen use quite large proportions of saw- 
dust in Rhododendron and Azalea beds. Some report 
uniformly good growing results. Others report “hits 
or misses”. Age of sawdust, kind (oak pine, etc.), 
and proportion used, are important factors. No tests 
have been made here on sawdusts. Observations in 
other nurseries have led us to believe that sawdust 
not only is more or less detrimental when added to 
growing mediums, (possibly depending upon age, 
kind, and quantity), but also that it can prove to be 
poor mulching material. The pH cf sawdusts is 
difficult to control; the stuff gets “water-logged’’ 
during prolonged rainy periods; and unless it is very 
old and well rotted, it can be pretty rough on soil 
nutrients. As the sawdust deteriorates, large 
amounts of nitrogen are drawn from any soils in 
contact with the ’dust. 
Pine shats (needles), marsh hay, or even straw might 
be better. The ideal mulch is probably imported peat; 
and considering initial cost, plus labor, the imported 
peats likely are less expensive in the long run. 
(Continued on page 23) 
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