HOW TO GROW GERANIUMS 
GERANIUMS OUTDOORS 
Soil: Any garden 
that will grow com- 
mon annual or per- 
ennial plants will 
grow Geraniums. If 
the soil is too rich, 
Geraniums produce 
soft, leggy branches, 
dense foliage and a 
a scarcity of bloom. 
If the soil is too poor, they produce pale 
foliage and small blooms. Ideal soil is 
slightly acid (about pH 6.5), 3 parts clay 
loam, 1 part coarse sand, and 1 part organic 
matter. 
Sun: Geraniums require a lot of sunshine, 
yet, if at all possible, they should be shaded 
during the hottest part of the day to pro- 
duce the best flowers. Geraniums will not 
do well in complete shade. 
Water: When the soil appears dry, soak 
to a depth of at least 6 inches. It is much 
better to soak the ground once or twice a 
week than to sprinkle the soil every day. 
Always water early enough in the day so 
that the foliage will be dry by night. 
GERANIUMS 
Soil: Mix together 3 parts good garden 
soil and 1 part peat moss, pack dirt firmly 
around plants. Have the soil moist, but not 
wet, when potting. 
Containers: Repot our 214-inch plants in 
3-inch pots. Do not use too large a pot for 
Geraniums, they bloom best when a little 
pot bound. It is better to repot the plants, 
increasing the size pot each time. Leave 
at least 14-inch of space at the top of each 
pot for watering, leave more room for larger 
containers. Always have good drainage. 
Sun: To bloom indoors, Geraniums must 
have direct sun. Place them as close to the 
glass as possible. 
Space: For beautiful beds allow only 8 
inches in all directions for spreading. Pinch- 
ing the tops of each plant will promote 
piatges but will delay blooming several 
weeks. 
Fertilizer: Bonemeal is excellent; mix in 
a liberal amount while preparing your soil. 
For additional feeding we recommend Plant 
Marvel. 
Geraniums growing outdoors will drop 
most of their foliage if dug and potted for 
inside use during the winter. It is better 
to take cuttings from the older plants and 
start with fresh plants for indoor growing. 
Take cuttings, anytime, 4 to 6 inches long 
from strong branches that have leaves grow- 
ing close together. Remove the leaves far 
enough up the stem to allow the cutting to 
stand upright when placed in moist sand. 
This sand should be about 4 inches deep in a 
box placed in a sunny spot. Cut a narrow 
trench in the sand and stick the cuttings 
to a depth of about 2 inches, then pat the 
sand firmly. Keep the sand moist; roots 
should appear in 3 weeks. 
INDOORS 
Water: Do not allow the soil to become 
water-logged or soggy. Once a week, espe- 
cially on a sunny day, soak the plant. The 
rest of the time only enough to keep it from 
drying out. 
Feeding: Do not feed unless the plants 
have stopped growing or the foliage is too 
pale. Use any good fertilizer. If you use 
Vigoro, put a small pinch on top of the soil 
before watering the plants. We like to use 
Plant Marvel—it is completely soluble in 
water. Do not over-feed—Geraniums do not 
require heavy fertilization. 
Geraniums grown indoors during the 
winter may be planted outside in the spring, 
after the danger of frost is past. 
To Help You Grow Them 
B-101—-GERANIUMS by Helen Van Pelt Wilson 
This book is a must for every Geranium enthusiast. Tells you 
how to grow them successfully all over the U. S. Contains 21 
chapters, 247 pages concerning all types and lists over 300 varieties, 
many in color and line drawings. 
You'll really enjoy this authority on Geraniums. $3.95. 
