TRANSPLANTING 
A good mixture for transplanting contains two parts of well- 
decayed leaf mold to one part of top soil, with a light applica- 
tion of well-decayed manure. At first the seedlings are 
planted one inch apart, and when they become crowded they 
are transplanted again. In five to six weeks they will be 
ready for potting or planting in the garden. 
In GARDEN PLANTING, one should not “over do” the 
soil preparation. Such practices as digging trenches and filling 
them with loose leaf mold should be avoided. The most de- 
sirable soil is fairly loose but yet has sufficient body and 
nutrients to allow the plant to develop. A sandy soil requires 
the application of humus, whereas heavy soils require sand 
and leaf mold. 
Begonias can not stand direct sunlight during the day (in 
most areas ), therefore it is well to choose planting sites that 
afford the early morning sunlight or the late evening sun- 
light. The more sunlight the plant can receive without burn- 
ing, the more flowers may be obtained, and the larger the 
blooms. The Begonias should be planted in order that the 
point of the leaves faces the observer. This is known as facing 
the plant, and it is important if one is to see the bloom well. 
After planting, Begonias require a minimum of watering 
during the early stages of growth. 
PINCHING 
To attain large flowers on the standard or upright type, all 
shoots should be removed except one. This is accomplished 
by breaking off, at any time, the growth that develops from 
the tuber. If you desire to make cuttings, allow the growth 
to develop two to three inches high on the extra shoots, then 
cut off at the tuber with a sharp knife, and then by planting 
in sand they will form their own tuber in the fall. 
On the hanging basket variety started from tubers, all the 
sprouts should be kept and the crown pinched from the first 
main sprout when they attain four or five inches of growth. 
This induces the development of the lateral growth, and the 
growth of new sprouts. Lateral sprouts should not be 
pinched; they may be pinched before potting or soon after 
potting. Do not pinch the plants of the seedling hanging 
basket type the first year, as this does not allow time for 
flower production, and does not allow the tuber to develop 
properly. 
For a full basket of seedlings, it is best to put from two 
to four plants in each basket, depending on the size of the 
container. 
DROPPING OF BUDS 
Begonias, although hardy and easy to grow under favorable 
conditions, are affected by overwatering, too dense shade, 
and lack of air, and as a result, will not bloom properly. 
They require fresh-air circulation, and will drop their buds 
and flowers in a very few days if kept indoors. If the center 
buds fall before they open, it is usually a sign that the soil is 
kept too wet. Care should be taken to avoid overwatering. 
In the cooler coastal areas, the use of peat moss should be 
avoided or used sparingly. If your plants become tall and 
spindling, with large leaves and few flowers, there is in- 
sufficient light. This may be remedied by removal to a less- 
shaded location. 
BEGONIA MILDEW 
In the past few years there has been a mildew problem on 
Begonias in numerous gardens throughout the county. This 
has definitely been established as Powdery Mildew. We have 
conducted many tests in home gardens in several sections, and 
we know we have a simple control of this problem. All gar- 
dens following the procedure of dusting with Sulphur at the 
beginning of plant growth, and continuing to dust twice 
a month up to blossom time, had no mildew on Begonias. 
We have also found a copper dust, containing no lime, 
that does not burn or injure the flower, and is recommended 
for use when plants are in bloom. We have used this copper 
dust since July, with excellent results. No mildew has ap- 
peared in any of our ten acres of field plantings, or in the 
greenhouses. 
