Dahlia roots in winter storage will 
not tolerate damp free open air. On 
the other hand, warm, dry free open 
air may dry them out to the extent 
of killing them, especially if they are 
not fully matured. They should be 
stored in a frost proof place as cool 
-as possible. They can’ be stored in bar- 
rels, boxes or any thing but they must 
be imbedded preferable, vermiculite, 
an insulation material, or sand, dirt if 
dry or peet. Sawdust sometimes draws 
moisture and fosters mildew. An old 
fashioned vegetable or .apple pit is 
ideal. Standing water in a pit will 
rot the roots. It is wise to line the pit 
with wire cloth, boards or concrete to ‘ 
keep the mice from eating them. A 
cover over the top to keep out excess 
moisture is necessary. The stalks are 
cut close as possible and clumps pill- 
ed one on top the other upside down 
as high as you like. 
A good way to distinguish your dahl- 
ias by name is to write on them with 
an indelible lead pencil, medium or 
soft lead. The root must be wet or the 
pencil won’t write on it. I use a small 
brush and water to clean a spot big 
enough to write a number on the root. 
The numbers corresponding to the 
names are recorded in a book for ref- 
erence. 
THE CARE OF CHRYSANTHE- 
MUMS: On receiving them from the 
mail, they should be submerged in 
rather cool water for a few minutes. 
Keep the sun from shining hot on 
them by shading. No matter how wet 
the soil is, use plenty of water to soak 
them in good, but should the sun 
shine hot on the soil immediately 
afterwards or sometime afterwards, 
they would most likely get scalded 
and die. Mulch around them with 
cloth or lawn clippings or something. 
SUMMER CARE: The two main 
things to keep in mind is, to build a 
strong root system and at the same 
time to keep them from getting too 
Ww 
STORAGE OF DAHLIA ROOTS 
tall and slim. To do this pinch the 
very top out when they are about 10 
inches tall. Top all stems any time 
after this if they commence to grow 
weak and spindly. Don’t let too many 
laterals grow. Stop disbudding in. 
plenty of time for them to form buds 
say the first of July or the first of 
August according to the variety 
grown. Allow a month, any way for 
buds to form. When color shows in 
the bud or when as big as peas, cut 
close all laterals except 3 to 5 or even 
one if you want real large flowers. 
Leave as Many on each branch. Sum- 
mer drouth is very destructive to their 
blooming. A roof of cello-glass to keep 
them dry in the blooming period will 
assure nice flowers. You probably will 
have to fight both fungus and in- 
sects. 
I ship my plants in round open end 
cartons to insure them getting plenty 
of air so they won’t rot. I pack in 
spaghnum moss with perhaps a small 
amount of peet to insure the packing 
retaining enough moisture. 
I have had wonderful success in 
landing stuff in good shape any where 
in the United. States. 
TESTIMONIALS: Unless I have 
the permission, I do not publish the 
names of satisfied customers that have 
written me. I could mention a lot of 
them if I had room in the catalog. 
(Post card). 5/14/’51. I just received 
the mums I ordered and I want to 
congratulate you on the condition of 
the plants. They had been 5 days on 
the road and they looked as though 
they had just been dug. I got some 
in the same mail from the East coast 
and there was no comparison. Yours 
were 1000 times better. 
Yours truly, 
Dr. Dwight E. Ward, 
521 New. York Bidg., 
St. Paul, Minn. 
