HOW TO PLANT AND TRIM ROSES 
The top illustration to the right shows the correct way of planting a ros 
It also shows the way a rose should be cut back when ahead, The Reitom 
illustration shows the improper way to plant a rose. Please note that the knob 
or bud in the top illustration, as well as the forks of the plant, are slightly 
under the ground level. The bud of a grafted rose should always be planted 
' from 11% to 2% inches under the ground level, preferably the latter figure. The 
bottom illustration shows this bud planted above ground, and of consequence a 
perfect chance of freezing out over the first winter. Also note the crowded 
condition of the roots which are not allowed to expand normally, as well as the 
hard pan at the bottom of the hole, which should be loosened for better root 
action. Too shallow planting in a large per cent of (Right) 
the cases is the cause of the plant freezing out 
and suckers coming from the roots and “going to 
the wild rose” as it is so commonly called. 
At least in Colorado, roses should never be 
pruned or trimmed back in the fall; either 
climbers or bush roses. Any cutting back of roses 
should be done about the time the growth starts 
in the spring, and then remove the dead wood only, 
except in bush roses, where they’ve gone through 
a favorable winter and considerable live wood is 
still on the plant; it is then advisable to cut back 
to about six or eight inches above the ground. 
Watering, fertilization and cultivation, out- 
side of good stock to start with, are perhaps the 
most vital factors in the production of good 
blooms. Cow fertilizer is the safest to use, and 
deep irrigations as shown in the last paragraph of 
“How To Plant Evergreens” is advisable. The soil 
should be frequently aerated by deep hoeing or 
cultivation, but not until the ground is sufficiently 
dried out after watering. 
(Wrong) 
HOW TO PLANT EVERGREENS 
From the illustration on the left, you will note 
the dug hole is somewhat deeper and wider than 
the depth and width of the ball respectively. This 
is necessary so that good, loose, well pulverized 
soil can be underneath the evergreen as well as 
around it. The tree should be set an inch or so 
lower than the ground level, or so the top of the 
burlap is barely under the ground level. The slight 
cup around the tree will then serve as a water 
basin for future watering purposes. Avoid making 
this too pronounced however. 
Be sure the evergreen is properly set before 
attempting to fill in the soil around the tree. 
Wherever possible, it is advisable to place the 
end of the hose down in the hole near the bottom 
of the tree before filling in the soil. After the fill 
in, to a height somewhat higher than ground 
level, turn on the water. After the water rises 
above the soil, pull out the hose and allow the 
water to seep away, which it will gradually. This 
method of planting will eliminate any air pockets. 
It is advisable to add a little extra soil on top 
afterwards. This will stop the baking around the 
tree. Do not remove the burlap, or use fertilizer. 
Deep irrigation on evergreens, of a slight dribble for several hours, is 
preferable to the regular sprinkling method and should be done every week to 
ten days, according to weather conditions. 
