BIRCHVILLE GARDENS — Plainville, Connecticut 
CULTURAL HINTS 
Packages of bulbs must be opened as soon as received and the bulbs stored 
in a cool, dry place until planting time. 
PLANTING DATES. Any time from early Spring until the first of July. The bloom- 
ing season can be prolonged until frost if planted at intervals of three weeks. 
WHERE TO PLANT. Glads shouid be planred in open, sunny places, away from 
buildings and trees. They are primarily cut flowers and should be planted in 
rows such as a vegetable garden. 
SOIL. Glads will grow in any kind of soil but do best in a sandy loam. The 
soil must be well drained. It pays to spade deeply. 
FERTILIZING. The amount to use will depend upon the fertility of your soil. 
Any good commercial fertilizer will give good results or you can ask your dealer 
for the fertilizer commonly used on potatoes in your locality. Most growers pre- 
fer the fertilizer in the bottom of the trench as the bulbs are planted. Care must 
be taken to see that the fertilizer is mixed with the soil and then about 2 inches 
of soil placed over the mixture. The bulbs should then be set in the row, leaving 
the 2 inches of soil between them and the fertilizer. 
DISINFECTING. All bulbs and bulblets should be dipped in disinfectant in order 
to kill Thrip and to prevent possible disease infection on the bulbs. Nothing 
will cure bulbs affected with any of the rots. Bulbs showing rot should be dis- 
carded at once. (See formulas for Dips and Sprays.) 
PLANTING. Plant from 3 to 6 inches deep. Small bulbs should be planted about 
3 inches deep and larger sizes up to 6 inches deep. If you have a heavy clay 
soil 4 to 5 inches will be deep enough. The bulbs should be set not closer than 4 
inches apart in the rows and the soil must be firmed well after planting. 
WATERING. Glads need plenty of moisture. To produce top bloom they should 
have 1/2 to 2 inches of water per week. Whenever the natural rainfall fails to 
supply this quantity be sure to put it on in the form of irrigation. It is best to 
water just once or twice a week, soaking the soil well, so that the roots are not 
pushing upward to the surface of the ground. 
CUTTING BLOOMS. Glads are the most popular cut flower grown today. To 
enjoy them at their best the spikes should be cut when the first floret is in full 
bloom. They should be placed in water at once and taken indoors to develop 
slowly. You can enjoy a spike a long time as a good variety will open every 
bud to the tip, in water. If the water in the vase is changed daily and about an 
inch of the stem is cut off (slantwise) each day, many varieties will keep for as 
long as a week. When cutting the spike always leave 4 leaves on the plant to 
develop the bulb for the following year. 
DIGGING. Bulbs should not be dug until about 6 weeks after blooming, in or- 
der to mature the bulbs. A good sign is to watch the foilage and when it begins 
to turn brown, dig at once. After the tops are cut off, close to the bulb, dry the 
bulbs in the air in trays or boxes. It is best not to allow the sun to shine directly 
on them while drying. After 2 or 3 weeks of drying the old bulb and roots can 
then be removed. DO NOT remove the husks as this protects bulb during storag.e 
STORAGE. After drying, the bulbs must not be exposed to freezing tempera- 
tures. The ideal storage temperature is 38 to 45 degrees. Bulbs should not be 
placed too deeply in the boxes as they need air while in storage. 
When you get ready to store your bulbs, be sure to give them a light dusting 
of 5% D.D.T. This will eliminate any danger of thrip feeding on your bulbs 
during storage period. Glads are easy to grow and anyone, even a beginner, 
can grow the finest show flowers! 
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