We have made many experiments since our first Commercial 
Epiphyllum Show in 1933, and we believe that the best soil is made 
up of equal parts good Garden Loam, leaf-mould and coarse build- 
ing sand with a generous amount of charcoal added. This will do 
nicely for the first year. From then on the plants should be given 
extra food. A well-rotted manure may be put around them or a 
liquid food may be used. Occasional blood meal or bone meal proves 
beneficial. Animal fertilizer placed in the bottom of the can will 
not harm the plants. 
Old growth always makes the best cuttings, as the stronger the 
central woody stem, the sturdier will be the new plant. A long cut- 
ting is stronger and blooms more quickly than a short one. Al// 
cuttings should Jay to dry for from one to two weeks. The thicker 
the cutting the longer it must dry. It is best to dry them slowly in 
a cool, shady place as this forms a very tough scar-tissue which is 
rot resistent. Plant cuttings about 114” deep, being careful not to 
bruise them in any way. The strongest roots are formed when cut- 
tings are watered very sparingly for the first month. 
If rooted cuttings are purchased, it is generally safer to start 
them in a very dry soil mixture, withhold moisture for about three 
days, then water very sparingly until they show signs of being tre- 
established. This will prevent the rotting which so often follows 
their transplanting. 
Whenever it is necessary to re-pot an adult plant, the soil around 
the plant should be completely dry first. The new soil should also 
be dry. Take out the plant, separate it if needed, trim back the roots 
or partly remove the old soil. Replant it in the same size container 
for best blooms. Withhold water for a week, then water sparingly 
until re-established. By this method the plant will not be harmed 
or rot, as a dry plant cannot rot. 
These plants need some sunshine, but will produce lovely flowers 
in shade where there is an abundance of reflected light. They are 
always a semi-shade plant. 
