TO OUR CUSTOMERS AND FRIENDS 
Once again we present our catalog for the season. We hepe that you 
will find it of value, both from the cultural point of view and for the 
varieties we offer. We are not hybridizers or disseminators, but select and 
buy only those varieties which have proven superior. About two hundred 
of these we have imported and grown on here with success. In line with 
this policy we have discontinued many varieties, in favor of the new and 
better. Unfortunately, prices of everything have continued to rise, but we 
have reduced the prices on many varieties according to size of our stock 
and productivity of plants. 
Our aim is to supply you with plants which will give you pleasure and 
satisfaction, and to offer any necessary information and advice which you 
may require to achieve this end. We use every precaution to avoid errors 
but sometimes in the rush of the busy season they might occur. Please let us 
know and we will try to put them right. 
We would like to thank our customers again for their continued confi- 
dence and support. We hope to retain the friendly relations that have 
existed between us. 
CULTURAL SUGGESTIONS 
While we hope these suggestions may be helpful to our growers, we must 
confess to some hesitancy in making them specific. The great variations in 
conditions in the wide areas to which our plants are sent must cause some 
modifications. 
For general outdoor conditions one should select varieties which will set 
buds early enough for blooming before the frost period in your locality. The 
newer Early English varieties will be a pleasant surprise to those not now 
acquainted with them. These, as well as the hardy garden varieties and cushion 
or azaleamums will bloom by October 15th. Those fortunate enough to have 
shelter or greenhouses in early frost areas may, of course, grow any variety, 
and those in areas which have no heavy frosts until November can grow any 
type of chrysanthemum successfully, even the so-called greenhouse varieties. 
The plant itself should be strong and healthy. We, here at Cascade Gardens, 
believe that inasmuch as a cutting is really living off itself during the rooting 
period, it should be rooted as quickly as possible, and further, that it should 
be rooted in soil, to replace more quickly the nutrients and minerals lost during 
the rooting period. By use of bottom heat a cutting becomes a rooted plant 
with strength replenished in about 20 days, and can then be shipped or re- 
planted without check or loss. 
GROUND PREPARATION — The soil as such is not of great importance. 
The conditions as to aeration and drainage are the important things. If the 
soil is apt to be too wet in rainy season a raised bed of 4 to 6 inches is best. 
This may also save plants from so-called winter killing. Prepare the ground 
as far in advance of planting as possible, in the fall is best. Use about 4 bushels 
or two large bags of manure to each 100 sq. ft of bed area. Add 4 to 6 lbs. 
superphosphate and 38 to 4 lbs. of John Innis Base Plant Food and spade all 
thoroughly under. A sack or two of coarse sand is helpful if soil is heavy. If 
soil is acid a pound or two of lime should be added. Mums do better in soil 
that is neutral or only slightly acid. 
PLANTING—Plant out as soon as the ground is warm. Do not plant too deeply 
and shade until established if weather is sunny or hot. Plant in a sunny location 
as they require at least six hours of sunshine daily. In our hot interior valley 
morning sun is ideal. Assuming that your ground is well prepared, set out 
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