plants in this way: using a hand trowel dig a hole to accommodate the root 
ball, gently spread the roots out and set in hole firming the soil around and 
over them, then water just enough to settle soil (a cup or two of water) and 
cover lightly with more soil Great care must be taken at this time not to 
over-water. It is best not to flood or irrigate the bed until plants are well 
established as this may damage the roots to such extent that they do not re- 
cover. The roots will develop faster as they go out in search for moisture 
and when the root system grows larger they should not suffer for lack of water 
and never be allowed to completely dry out as this damages the feeder roots 
which are near the surface. For best results plants should be kept growing 
steadily without any check in growth. 
FEEDING — Providing the ground has been prepared as above, the plants 
will not require feeding until July 15th. Then top dress as follows: (Using a 
gallon can for a measure) 3 cans fine manure, 3 cans coarse sand, 9 cans 
soil, 3 cans peat-moss or leaf-mold and 114 lbs. John Innis Base Plant Food. 
Mix all thoroughly together and spread thinly over 100 sq. feet of bed. Re- 
peat August 20th and September 20th. 
If John Innis Base is not available use Bloodmeal 3 parts, superphosphate 
6 parts and sulphate or muriate of potosh one part—mix thoroughly and use at 
same rate. 
PINCHING — As many growers are not particular as to exact blooming date 
we suggest planting May or early June, then around June 20th to 30th cut back 
to 4 or 5 nodes or sets of leaves and in about ten days select the number of 
stems that you wish for bloom (38 for the large flowering). Select the 
strongest and remove all others. Save the first bud that appears unless it comes 
before August, in that case rub it off; a top side shoot will grow, on which an- 
other bud will form, save this one. Remove all side shoots or laterals as they 
appear, pinching them out with the thumb nail. Stake each stem with a bamboo 
cane, tying well. This will keep stems straight and prevent flowers rubbing 
which causes them to bruise. We find raffia a good tying medium. It is strong, 
easy to handle, will not cut the plant and is economical to use. For specific 
stopping and timing, see Key for this method. 
For pompons, anemones and garden varieties use same general culture. 
Pinch top of plant when well established and cut back again July 1st to 15th. 
The large pompons and anemones may be disbudded. The cushions and Lilli- 
puts require no pinching. 
Early English Varieties—Plant early May. Pinch June 7th and July 15th. 
_ Save 6 stems after pinch and remove others. Retain one bud per stem, remov- 
ing all laterals as they appear. The blooms should be from 4 to 6 inches in 
diameter if well grown. Keep them well staked. 
PESTS — For control of aphids, dust with Malathon dust, repeat in 5 days 
or use Benzene Hexachloride, J tablespoon to one gallon of water as a spray, 
repeating in 5 days. 
Leaf Hopper and Thrip — Dust with DDT and sulphur, repeat in 15 to 18 days. 
Red Spider or Two Spotted Mite — These usually appear late in the dryer 
part of the season. Use Aramite; one application usually does. 
Rust, Leaf Spot and Mildew — Fermate as directed on package. Captan 
is very good. For mildew only, use dusting sulphur. 
WEED CONTROL — As soon as planting is done cover bed area with a 2 or 
3 inch mulch of wood shavings or any light material which contains no weed 
seeds and will not pack. This keeps weeds from growing and also keeps root 
area cool and the feeder roots from drying out. 
For the chrysanthemum hobbyist we recommend subscribing to “The 
Chrysanthemum”, published by The Chrysanthemum Press Ltd., Effingham 
House, Arundel St., London, W.C.2. (U.S. A., $2.75). 
KODACHROME Flower Slide Rental Sets ... 100 Wonderful (new) PRO- 
GRAMS. Send 10c for list to Philip Corliss, Box 68C, Somerton, Arizona. 
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