THERE IS NOTHING THAT ADDS SO MUCH TO THE BEAUTY 
AND THE VALUE OF YOUR HOME AS DOES A NICE LAWN 
Modern fertilizers, chemical weed killers, watering devices have all made lawn main- 
tenance comparatively simple. 
BUT it is of utmost importance to do a thorough job in making a new lawn. 
NEW LAWN 
1. Condition the soil. If it is too sandy, add sufficient 
peat moss or weed-free manure (if you can get it); if too 
heavy, use Krilium or some other soil conditioner, peat 
moss, Manure, Vermiculite or coarse sand. 
2. Spade or plow to a depth of 4 to 6 inches and pul- 
verize thoroughly. Grass seeds are very, very small; need 
a finely pulverized seed base. 
3. Apply a good commercial fertilizer at a liberal rate. 
Apply it evenly and work it into the top 2 or 3 inches with 
a rake. Water thoroughly and wait a day or two before 
seeding. 
4. Sow good grass seed at the rate of six to eight pounds 
per 1,000 square feet. Rake the seed in lightly. 
5. Roll or tamp to imbed seed and insure perfect con- 
tact between seed and soil. A tamper or wide board can 
be used on small areas if a roller is not available. 
6. Cover entire area with peat moss about 44-inch deep. 
One large bale will cover about 1,200 square feet. This 
holds moisture in the soil and prevents baking. 
7. Water thoroughly, using a fine spray. Keep the 
ground moist but not sopping wet. Water once or twice 
each day for three or four weeks, then water as needed 
but always water thoroughly. 
OLD LAWN 
Does your old lawn need rejuvenation? Lawn grasses 
need food, water and air. Fertilizers and water will take 
care of the first two needs but the supplying of air is 
generally neglected. 
Tramping and rolling packs the soil so that it will not 
properly take water and does not get air. The application 
of sand and peat moss is often beneficial but this does 
not get down to the roots. 
Aerating with an Aerifier is the answer. The Aerifies 
is a tool that takes out a 4-inch plug about as large as 
your finger. While these plugs are lying on the ground, 
scatter some Vermiculite or peat moss, together with some 
fertilizer and a little grass seed, on the plot. Then drag 
a door mat over the plot so that this material will fall 
into the holes. Take a small space at a time and when 
you have gone over the entire lawn you will have the kind 
of a lawn that you dream about. 
BARTELDES LAWN GRASS 
SEEDS 
Sow Barteldes Seeds and you sow the finest. Golf 
Courses are seeded by experts and they demand the very 
best. The Lawrence Country Club, Denver Country Club, 
Cherry Hills, Park Hill, Broadmoor Hotel at Colorado 
Springs, Greeley, Salina and many, many others were 
seeded with Barteldes Seeds. 
September 11, 1927 
The Barteldes Seed Co. Colorado Springs, Colo. 
Denver, Colorado 
Gentlemen: 
We have used your seeds on the Broadmoor Golf Course for 
a period of five years. It is a keen satisfaction to know that 
we can rely on your statements pertaining to quality and purity 
of the grass seeds sold by The Barteldes Seed Company. 
The New Broadmoor Hotel polo field was sown last June 
and is now ready for play. 
Barteldes Seed was used exclusively on the new polo field 
and I am sure that your seeds are equal to seeds priced much 
hi : 2 
igher Very truly yours, 
W. H. THORNE, 
Supt. Broadmoor Golf Coarse 
and Polo Field 
broadmoor’s new nine holes was planted in 1950 with Bar- 
teldes Seeds exclusively. 
KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS—Always reliable. The stand- 
ard grass seed in America for lawns and pastures. One 
pound should be sown for every 150 square feet, or for 
every plot 10-15 feet. Sow 30 pounds to the acre for pas- 
ture. 
MERION BLUE GRASS (B27)—Merion Blue seems to be 
as good as the turf authorities say, it is. It has a dark 
green color, grows thicker than Kentucky Blue, takes 
less water, is less subject to disease, keeps out Crab 
Grass better. Because of its strong underground roots 
or rhizomes it should be able to establish itself in an 
old lawn and take over. Seed supply is very limited. 
SEASIDE BENT GRASS (Creeping)—Widely used on put- 
ting greens on golf courses. Takes extra care for best 
results—closer and more frequent mowings, more ferti- 
lization, and more water. Very fine bladed. Keeps out 
weeds as it makes a thick turf. Sow one pound to 200 
square feet for new lawns. 
ASTORIA and HIGHLAND BENT—Quite similar. High- 
land is grown at a higher altitude and under dryer con- 
ditions. Makes a thick turf and stays mixed with other 
grasses whereas Seaside will cross out other grasses. 
Hither Highland or Astoria are excellent for thickening 
up an old lawn. Sow one pound to 200 square feet on 
new lawns, and one pound to 400 square feet on old 
lawns. 
POA TRIVIALIS—Bright green, fine bladed. Does well in 
shade, especially damp places. 
CHEWING FESCUE—Round bladed, fine grass, that does 
well in shade, especially in dry places. Stands a lot of 
tramping. 
RED CREEPING FESCUE — Similar to Chewing but 
spreads more. 
NATIVE or DOMESTIC RYE GRASS—A quick growing 
annual, slightly coarser than Blue Grass. A good nurse 
crop variety. 
FOR HIGH QUALITY MIXED 
LAWN GRASSES --- See page 36 
