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GROWING FLOWERS FROM SEEDS 
All culture letters in the flower seed listings refer to the direc- 
tions given below. Please follow them carefully to be certain of 
good results. Where two or more letters are given, choose the one 
that you can most easily and accurately use; however note care- 
fully information under all letters given for any particular flower 
as some indicate planting dates and other special requirements. 
. 
TRANSPLANTING: If you have difficulty making plants live after transplanting 
to your garden, try moving in a ball of moist earth containing one or sev- 
eral plants and taking care not to disturb the roots. Use trowel or trans- 
planting fork. Keep shaded and water from hose in fine mist should then be 
applied for several hours to discourage wilting. Additional information 
page 65. 
(A) Sow in the bed, border or row where the plants are to grow. 
The soil should be loamy, full of humus to the extent that it will 
easily pulverize, not dry out readily and crack. Make certain that 
you have good topsoil, not fill-in from the basement excavation. A 
load or two of good topsoil hauled in and well fortified with humus 
—leaf mold, peat moss, well rotted manure or composted organic 
material — may mean the difference between pride of accomplish- 
ment and envying your neighbors’ more attractive flower bed. 
Nearly all flowers do well in sunny locations; see page 75 for 
list of those that do well in partial shade. 
Spade to a depth of 6 inches, pulverize and rake smooth. Plant 
in rows or broadcast the seed. Cover lightly to a depth four or five 
times the seed’s diameter. Very small seeds may be merely pressed 
into the soil with a flat board and a very little soil and pulverized 
sphagnum or peat moss sprinkled over them. Larger seeds may be 
planted singly, well covered, but more thickly than plants are 
wanted, Firm the soil well over the seed. Watering now becomes 
of great importance.. At no time should the soil be allowed to 
become hard and dry, yet excessive watering may cause the seed to 
rot, sour the soil, or cause “damping-off.” Use a fine spray that will 
not wash out the seed. When the plants appear, thin them out, 
allowing each to grow singly, without crowding. The distance be- 
tween them is governed by their ultimate size and spread. Excess 
plants may usually be moved to a new location. 
Cultivate shallowly so as to not damage roots. Crinkle Plant 
Covers (page 73) set close together over the seed row will give pro- 
tection and force growth of plants. 
(B) Sow in outdoor seed bed, to be transplanted. Same as (A) 
except bed should be not over six feet wide for easy tending and 
always sow seed in rows. Keep soil moist until plants are up. A 
thin dressing of peat moss covering soil surface will help. Place 
in full sun, protect from winds and, in the case of perennial seed- 
lings, provide a lath or cloth canopy for shade during heat of sum- 
mer. This should be removable in damp and cloudy weather. Seed- 
lings may be transplanted when they make true leaves, that is, 
when the second pair of leaves appear; or they may be left until 
larger before being moved to their permanent location. Perennials 
should be moved from the seed bed to a nursery row, to grow until 
fall before being moved to their permanent location. 
Continued page 94 
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