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GROWING FLOWERS FROM SEEDS 
Continued from page 93 
(C) Sow in cold frame or in protected or lath shaded spot that 
can be kept moist and undisturbed over a long period. This method 
is used for slow germinating seed, some of which require months 
to sprout. Plant as in (B) preparing soil as in (A). During the 
spring, summer and fall, water often enough to prevent soil from 
drying out. A mulch of peat or pulverized sphagnum moss 
% 
will help retain moisture. In winter to afford protection, cover with © 
leaves. Have patience with slow germinating subjects; do not dis- 
turb too quickly. Any live seed will eventually grow if given time — 
enough, provided soil, moisture supply, etc., are right. When seed- — 
lings appear and make true leaves, transplant to pots, nursery row 
or permanent location. If moss forms on soil surface, sprinkle 
fresh earth over top. 
(D) Sow indoors in boxes or flats (pictured top page 4). These 
should be of convenient size and about 3 inches deep. The soil used 
should be composed of about equal parts of leaf mold, sharp sand 
and good garden soil. The bottom of the flat may be covered with 
a layer of coarse gravel, broken pots or some such material, and 
the prepared soil finely sifted to fill up the balance of the box 
within about an inch of the top. Place in a window where exposed _ 
to the sun and cover with a pane of glass to retard evaporation. 
Water carefully with a fine spray, keeping the soil moist but not 
wet. Remove the glass after the plants are up. Some flower seeds 
are very slow to germinate, so be sure to allow sufficient time 
without disturbing soil. Too much watering will result in tall, 
weak plants. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, 
about four leaves, they should be transplanted one inch apart in 
another bed, flat or in small pots (paper pots are excellent for this 
purpose), later to be reset in the open ground, See page 65 for 
information regarding blocking the plants. 
(E) Sow in hotbed. This is the best way to start plants that are 
to be transplanted if greenhouse is not available. (See page 6 for 
construction.) We recommend use of Gro-Quick Electric Seed Bed 
Heater listed page 6. Prepare soil as in (A) and sow as in (B). 
(F) Time of planting—March or early spring. 
(G) Time of planting outdoors, after all danger of frost is over 
and the soil warm, usually about May 10. 
(H) Time of planting indoors, or under glass — March or very 
early spring for transplanting after danger of frost is over. 
HOW TO GROW ZINNIAS 
Soil preparation as in A page 93 
Do not plant zinnia seed until all danger from frost is past. Select a 
location not nearer trees than the height of the trees, as zinnias will not do 
well in the shade. Sow 15 seeds to the foot of row, at a depth of 2 to % 
inch. Keep the soil moist and the crust broken until the plants are up. Thin 
so the plants are 12 to 15 inches apart in the row for the giant types, and 
8 to 10 inches apart for the Lilliput. Rows should be 3 feet apart for giants 
and 24 inches apart for the small varieties. Zinnias do best on very rich 
soil, Cultivate and water frequently. Dust with finely ground sulphur when 
the plants are beginning to bud, at the rate of Y Ib. to the square rod to 
avoid mildew. 
The onion weeders listed page 73 
are fine for weeding flower gardens. 
94 
