& 
A typical modern Mum crop. The 90 days scheduled from planting to flowering for this shaded September crop developed just enough height 
to insure adequate stem—no extra to be wasted. Plants not pinched. Variety in foreground: White Shasta. 
tots 6 
WEST CHICAGO 
ILLINOIS 
Bo * é s ee 
#1. HAVE A PLAN 
The starting point of any mum program is this: 
What do you want to flower, and when? With this 
decided (in writing), it becomes a question of 
selecting varieties, proper dates to plant, etc. 
Here’s where you will find this information in 
your 1954 Ball Mum Guide: 
a. For normal season crops 
Variety recommendations: our “‘best’’ list for 
each color of mums and pomps for each month. 
Pages 11 and 12. 
Schedules: flowering dates, pinch dates for all 
varieties are given in our regular list beginning 
on page 52. Planting dates are figured back 
from pinch date—see page 2. 
b. For “off-season” crops 
Varieties, schedules, temperatures, etc., all de- 
tails in year ‘round tables, page 17. 
c. For pot mums 
Both variety and schedule recommendations be- 
gin on page 37. 
We highly recommend that you have a complete 
plan in writing covering all the above points. Make 
it well in advance. If you have a grower, be sure 
he has a copy. Better yet, tack it on the end of 
the bench. 
You and your men will enjoy working from a 
written plan. 
And you'll do a better job, too! 
#2. SOIL MAINTENANCE 
Any reasonably good soil will grow Mums. It’s 
the care you take of it that counts. Once a year, 
just prior to benching of Mum cuttings, we do this: 
a. Humus 
Add about 12-2 inches of either peat or ma- 
nure or possibly a combination. This takes about 
2 to 3 wheelbarrows per 100 sq. ft. of bench. 
This humus keeps soil loose, open, helps retain 
moisture and nutrients. It makes ‘em grow! 
b. Phosphate 
Add 3 Ibs. of 20% super-phosphate per 100 sq. 
ft. 
c. Rototill 
The ‘‘knife’’ type cutter does not pulverize the 
soil so badly. Example—Milwaukee Model B-16. 
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