If mesh is of correct size, it can be unrolled 
onto bench and used for a planting marker—as it was here. Then, as 
cuttings start pulling up, the single layer of mesh is gradually raised— 
Wire mesh supports. 
kept about 6 inches below the plant tops all the way along. This 
mesh is in quite general use for Mum supporting in some sections 
of the country, not at all in others. Why? 
g. pH control 
If pH is too low (acid soil) add 2 to 3 lbs. Cal- 
cium Hydroxide (hydrated lime) per 100 sq. ft. 
If pH is too high, add 2-3 lbs. of Aluminum Sul- 
fate per 100 sq. ft. 
#6. PINCHING—AND TIME PINCHING 
Time pinching simply means pinching plants on 
the pinch date given in this catalog. See variety 
lists. To have normal (fall) Mums ready to pinch 
on the catalog pinch date, plant cuttings 3 weeks 
prior to that date—plus or minus a week. Then 
pinch on the date given in this guide. 
Pinching on the correct date generally assures 
Pomps with good, open spray formation. Standards 
pinched on the correct date will not usually throw 
crown buds—thus eliminating dog-leg necks. 
Single stem: ordinarily produce good spray for- 
mation if cuttings are planted on the catalog pinch 
dates. Interrupted shading has been done experi- 
mentally, but our experience has been rather in- 
definite so far. 
Softly, please! 
— You'd be surprised how much better results 
you'll get by just pinching out the top 4-2 inch. 
Pinching down hard means that new shoots must 
_ come from old, hard wood. 
#7. SUPPORTING—THE LAZY WAY 
One layer of wire-cross strings will support any 
Ordinary bench of pomps or standards. The one 
layer must be moved up every week or two, but if 
properly set up it takes only minutes. The photo 
on page 4 shows how we do it. 
WEST CHICAGO 
ILLINOIS 
Better than this, though, is the use of wire mesh. 
Already in general use among western mum 
growers, it seems to be quite practical. We sup- 
ported one bench this way on our own range this 
past spring. Between crops it is raised overhead 
out of the way for plowing, etc. 
Wire mesh eliminates 
a. Unrolling and stretching individual lengths 
of wire; 
b. Winding them up after the crop; 
c. Stringing, too! 
#8. INSECTS—PREVENTION VS CURE? 
We vote for the prevention approach! 
Once an infestation has built up, much damage 
is already done. Furthermore, it takes more effort 
to put down a serious build-up than it does to pre- 
vent its ever happening. Then too, the fellow who 
waits for trouble to appear must spend a lot of time 
just looking for it. 
Here is the program we are now using—based 
On previous experience—and on the excellent dope 
on the subject from the state schools. 
Basic spray 
Starting 10-12 days after planting cuttings, we 
spray weekly in summer (less in winter) with the 
following solution, discontinuing spray when color 
shows. 
Per 10 gallons water Controls 
red spider, foliar nematode, 
aphis, midge, thrip, various 
leaf chewers, mite. 
thrip, midge, sow bugs, leaf 
rollers, pill bugs, leaf hop- 
pers, white fly, tarnish plant 
bugs. 
powdery mildew 
(may be omitted where mil- 
22 oz. Parathion 15% 
wettable powder 
DDT, 50% 
wettable powder 
Pie oz. 
12 oz. Wettable sulphur 
) : 
(powder! dew is not present) 
: scptoria leaf spot, rust, 
2'/2 oz. Fermate (general fungicide) 
Dreft (or other spreader) spreader 
Notes: 
1. Some growers substitute a 2-strength Dithion aerosol 
bombing (G-57) for the above spray every third week, es- 
pecially under glass. 
2. Sources for the above materials: your local supply firm 
or Schramm Greenhouse Supply Co., Lee G Oakton Sts., Des 
Plaines, III. 
3. Mixing procedure: here’s how we do it: 
a. Put all dry ingredients in a cut flower can. 
b. Add small amount of water, stir to make a thin paste. 
If water is poured in too fast, a cloud of dust from the 
dry ingredients will rise—obviously dangerous! 
c. Fill spray tank % full. Add above slurry gradually with 
stirring (run agitator in tank). 
d. Fill tank. 
4. If aphis are especially troublesome, add 112 oz. of 
Lindane, 25%, per 10 gallons. 
(Continued on page 7) 
