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The most effective way of controlling—or rather 
breventing—weeds in a lawn is to have a turf so thick 
and vigorous that they cannot get a start. One of the 
great advantages of fall sowing is that the turf is well 
established before lawn weeds—particularly crab- 
gZrass—can offer competition. 
During the first few weeks after planting, some 
weeds are likely to appear among the grass plants, 
especially if weed seeds have been present in the top- 
soil, or manure used in preparing the lawn, or if poor 
quality seed has been used. The best time to get them 
out is immediately after the first mowing. The soil 
should be moist so the roots will come out readily, 
without breaking off at the surface. String guides (see 
page 7) are an aid to clean weeding. 
Chemical weed controls are sometimes helpful but 
should be applied only with expert care. None of 
them are 100% effective. 
Insect pests and diseases are not too likely to be 
troublesome in the small home lawn, but they should 
be watched for, and action taken immediately if they 
appear. Most diseases are serious only when grass is 
cut close—below 1-1/4 inches; on single grass turf (such 
as Bent) rather than mixtures; and when drainage or 
some other cultural condition ts poor. 
In using any controls, follow directions minutely, 
Here are a few of the most common troubles. 
Japanese Beetle Grubs—eat roots in May, June. Lead 
arsenate powder, 1 lb. to 100 sq. feet. 
Cinch Bugs—Tiny gray insects turn turf brown in 
patches. Rotenone dust or nicotine dust. 
Ants—Don’t cut turf close. Poison bait (thallium 
sulfate) or gas. 
Leaf Spot—Dark spots at base of Kentucky Blue- 
grass blades, usually in late spring. Cut 1-1/4 inches 
high; withhold water. 
Brown Patch and_ Dollar Patch—Attack Bent 
Grasses in warm, humid weather causing wilted areas 
or dead grass. Avoid afternoon watering. Organic 
mercury compound. 
Snow Mold—Usually late fall or early spring, leav- 
ing bleached looking dead patches. Organic mercury 
compounds. 
