Crops that remain in the garden 
throughout the entire growing season 
should be located where they will not 
be disturbed. Early crops should be 
planted together. When they are 
harvested, the space can be used again 
for fall crops. 
Successive cropping should be prac- 
ticed in every garden. This may be 
carried out in two ways. One crop may 
follow another in the same season... 
late cabbage or sweet corn may be 
planted in the space from which early 
peas, beans, lettuce or radishes have 
been harvested. Or successive planting 
of the same crop may be made at inter- 
vals of seven to ten days, This will pro- 
vide a continuous supply of such crops 
as sweet corn, string beans, spinach 
and radishes. 
Companion cropping is also important. 
This is the growing of two or more 
crops on the same area at the same time. 
Quick maturing crops like spinach, 
beans, kale, lettuce and radishes may 
be planted between the rows of egg- 
plant, tomatoes, melons, okra or other 
crops that occupy the ground during 
the entire season. The early crops will 
have time to mature and be harvested 
before the later ones will require the 
entire space for full development. 
With your plans complete, you are 
now ready to order your fertilizer, 
seeds, tools and insecticides. It is to your 
advantage to do this as early as you 
can. Late in the season many desirable 
varieties may be sold out. 
Pointers 
A rich sandy loam is the best garden 
soil, but if you have either heavy 
clay or light sand, the same mate- 
rials will improve both—the new 
soil conditioners, decayed vegetable 
matter—old rotted manure, peat 
moss, commercial humus or well- 
rotted leaves, 
Don’t apply lime unless it is really 
needed, Usually a soil that will 
grow good beets is all right. If beets 
do poorly and grow irregularly, you 
can add about 50 lbs. of hydrated 
lime or 100 lbs. of ground limestone 
to each 1,000 square feet of garden. 
If you have a pH tester, most 
flowers and vegetables will do well 
in a soil between 6.0 and 7.0. 
Do supply plant food. Before dig- 
ging or plowing the garden, apply 4 
lbs. of balanced fertilizer over 
every 100 sq. ft. of garden. Divide 
fertilizer into two lots, sowing one 
with the wind and the other across 
the wind. Better yet, use a ferti- 
lizer spreader. 
Don’t plant in wet ground. No soil 
is right for gardening that can’t 
pass the “mud pie” test. To make 
a mud pie test, pick up a handful 
of soil and squeeze it slightly. If it 
balls or packs together and won't 
crumble when you apply light pres- 
sure, it is entirely too wet to work. 
cosmos 
Cosmos 
ORANGE 
RUFFLES 
cosmos 
RADIANCE 
MARIGOLD 
GLITTERS 
SENSATION 
AGERATUM 
BLUE PERF. 
MARIGOLD» -- 
DWARF 
PLAN FOR A GARDEN OF ANNUALS (approximately 25 feet long) 
Planning the flower garden is fun, Here 
your skill as a gardener shows its true 
artistry. Your imagination can focus on 
flower selections for height, colors, shapes 
and contrasts. Successfully arranging 
bushy and sparse plants, shaggy blossoms 
and the delicate varieties in orderly pat- 
terns of beauty is one of the greatest thrills 
the flower gardener enjoys, The possibili- 
ties are endless. 
DELPHINIUM 
GIANTS 
Galvanized wire, staked out flush to the 
ground, bent and spliced at the inter- 
sections is helpful in permanently estab- 
lishing a plan like the one shown above. 
Observe how this arrangement places the 
tall flowers in the back, and the shortest 
in the foreground, Not only does this pro- 
vide maximum display of each variety, but 
cultivation is made easier and with little 
disturbance to adjoining plants. 
HOLLYHOCKS 
PACIFIC MIXE 
GAILLARDIA t 
MONARCH 
A PERENNIAL GARDEN (approximately 25 feet long) 
Over each flower listed in the Flower 
Seed section are shown the height, culture 
key and whether it is perennial, annual 
or biennial. By using page 19 as a help 
you can estimate germination and bloom- 
ing periods so that a constant succession 
of blooms or simultaneous blooming can 
be planned. The blueprints shown here 
are ‘‘pure’’ annual and perennial beds. 
The gardener who transplants perennials 
and biennials from cold frames or clay 
pots into annual beds or carefully sows 
annuals into his perennial beds can im- 
prove the over-all plan considerably. 
ee Pe 
vee 
A CORNER 
OF PERENNIALS 
A CORNER 
OF ANNUALS 
Plant with the Sun in Mind 
When planning your garden, it’s important to know which flowers will do well 
in bright sunlight, in partial shade and in deep shade. Of course, the ideal garden 
spot receives at least six hours of sunlight. 
Assuming that you have such a spot, the choice is unlimited for garden beauty 
and any of the blueprints of gardens shown above will be suitable. 
However, if your garden spot receives only little sunshine during the day, you 
can have a very attractive planting by using Sweet Alyssum and Nempholia as an 
edging. They both grow only to a height of 6 to 9 inches and can be planted 
where they are to grow. Another excellent shade-tolerant edger is the Pansy. 
For the middle of the shady annual border, the double Camellia-flowered Balsam, 
Cornflowers, Calendula, Anchusa, Godetia will be very effective. 
For a background you might use Nicotiana, or Flowering Tobacco for a fine color 
range from white through pink, salmon and rose to a deep maroon. They are 
delightfully fragrant and make excellent cut flowers. Cleome or Spider-Flower 
is another tall variety for the background, as is Clarkia. 
For deep shade, your choice is limited, but there are a few flowers which will 
make a good showing in the very shady border. They are: Anemone, Cardinal 
Flower, Columbine, Pansy and Primrose. Dwarf Phlox and Ferns make beauti- 
ful paths under tree and Violets will grow almost anywhere. 
It’s important to keep the shady border well watered, for the flowers that do 
well have little heat tolerance and cannot stand hot, dry weather. 
Provide good drainage, and be sure to lighten heavy earth with sand and humus. 
7 
