ft, >. +Reppers: 
- Plant early in the house or hot-bed 
and transplant to field when ground is 
yarm, : 
Give each plant not less than 1 inch 
pace in the hot-bed, rows -4 inches 
part. ae 
They like rich soil and warm growing 
weather. 
Trish Potatoes 
Seed stock should be cut, so that each 
iece will have two or three eyes. Seed 
pieces about 1” to 144” square are best. 
_ The pieces are planted 4 inches deep and 
2 to 14 inches apart in rows 3 to 3% 
feet apart. Spring planting is made as 
soon as danger of heavy frost is over and 
! late plantings should be made any time 
. from the last of June to August 15th. 
| Good cultivation is important. After dig- 
| ging the potatoes do not allow them to 
remain in-the open sun. Store in a dry, 
well ventilated, cool place. ie 
Sweet Potatoes 
Sweet potatoes can be started in hot 
beds about six weeks before time to set 
out. Good, sound sweet potatoes should 
_ be placed in a bed as close as possible. 
without touching and covered with about 
’~ two inches of clean sand. Plants are then 
set .on low ridges about 14 to 16 inches 
| apart in rows 3 feet apart. Set out in 
| the garden after all danger of frost is 
past. Harvest the crop right after the 
- first frost: Allow potatoes to dry out in 
the sun for four or five hours, Be care- 
_ ful not to bruise. Store in a dry, warm, 
_ well ventilated storage place. 
= 
Die 
'y 
~ Radish—See Chart 
Plant often so that you can always 
| have them crisp and tender. 
f Use them fresh from the garden be- 
fore they become tough and woody. 
__ Plant the long varieties for late spring 
and summer use. 
o Plant the winter varieties in late July 
» when you plant late turnips and thin to 
| at least six inches in the row. 
Salsify— 
See Chart 
Dig just before 
hard freezing 
weather and store 
in a _ shallow pit 
where it will freeze, 
for freezing im- 
f proves the flavor. 
% It is’ especially 
An easy way to plant fine in soups either 
tiny seeds. _ alone or with other 
“vegetables or with oysters. 
% 
ro ee Spinach 
lant early in rows 14 inches apart, 
overing the seed from three-fourth to 
one inch deep. 
_ Thin later to about 3 or 4 inches in the — 
row. One ounce will drill 100 feet; one 
packet, 25 feet. sit Sete 
Plant as early as possible, for it is 
most appreciated early in the season. 
_ Spinach can be planted in late summer 
and carried over winter by mulching 
same as for strawberries. 
Squash—See Chart 
For large seeded squash figure 25 hills 
_ to the ounce of seed and for small seed 
|. 50 hills to the ounce. < 
Summer Squashes are delicious if used 
before they are a third or half grown. — 
| Combat squash bugs by dusting with 
Bug Dust. 
a - Spaghetti Squash 
a Spaghetti squash is ready to use when 
_ the shell gets so hard you can’t dent it 
_ with your thumb nail. Some like to bake 
the squashes whole, just as they come 
from the garden, and 45 minutes in a 
— good hot oven is usually about right to 
_ do the job well. After baking, break the 
_ squash open, remove the seeds, the 
_ fleshy part comes out very easily, but- 
‘ter it liberally and season to taste. You 
have a real treat in store. ; 
We have been told that the spaghetti 
quash may also be cooked—in other 
words, just drop the squash in a kettle 
of water and give a good thorough boil- 
ing. 
Pret us hear how you like our spaghetti 
quash. ? 
Sweet Corn—See Chart 
Make an early planting and 
in a week or ten days another 
between the rows of that first 
planting. - |. 
For succession, plant an 
early, an intermediate and a 
late variety at the same time. 
r make several plantings of 
your favorite variety, or = i 
|. plant our special blend which ripens in 
succession. 
‘Be sure not to plant sweet corn close, 
- or you will have only fodder and no ears 
‘eat. Ae Aa i ; } 
To prevent ear worms, dust the silks 
vith Henry Field’s Bug Dust. Give first 
ting when silks are an inch long (be- 
worms appear). 
eld Seed 
& Nursery Co., 
- only one plant to the 
_ Free Booklet on Freezing 
Fruits and Vegetables 
Write the U. S. Department of Agri- 
culture, Office of Information, Washing- 
ton 25, D. C., for their new Farmer's 
Bulletin IS48, “Home Freezing of Fruits 
and Vegetables.”’ It’s free for the asking 
and a good one too. Just write directly 
to the U. S, Dept. of Agriculture. 
Watermelons—See Chart 
Drop 6 seeds to the hill and thin later 
when bugs are gone to 2 plants to hill. 
Figure 50 hills to the ounce of seed. 
If you want extra big melons, keep all 
but two or three on the vine picked off 
as fast as they appear. ; 
If you plant in hills, make them not 
closer than 8x10 feet and as far apart 
- as 12 x 12 feet, or even farther, some- 
times. 2 
' At this distance al growers allow 
ill. 
A dull green color indicates a ripe mel- 
on and a bright green color an unripe 
melon. : 
About Canning 
Space is too limited to give you all the 
information you would want about can- 
ning, but you can easily get full and very 
excellent directions by writing to the 
Bureau of Home Economics, Dept. of 
Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Other 
detailed instructions may be obtained by 
writing to the Kerr Glass Mfg. Corp., 
2913 Main St., Sand Springs, Okla. They 
put out excellent books on canning which 
cost you only 15c, 
By all means, everyone should can 
plenty of vegetables, and fruit this year. 
Be sure you have plenty to eat by 
GROWING YOUR OWN and CANNING 
YOUR OWN. 
OU. 
A CANNING PLANNING GUIDE 
Home- Am't. 
Grown to Pre- How to Preserve Amount to Plant 
Vegetables | serve Per Person 
an Per 
Fruits Person| Preferred Other = 
Per Yr.| Method Methods | Spring | Fall 
. VEGETABLES 
GROUP 1 
Tomatoes...| 30 qt. |Canning SCatsup 
\Chilisauce 15 Plants 
GROUP 2 
Cabbage. ...|f40 Ib. |Pit storage i } 18 Plants 
\10 Ib. |Kraut...... % 18 Plants 
Lettuce AS Pe ortte 6 ft. 
eee Freezing....| Canning } 15 ft. | 15 ft. 
15 ft. 
15 ft. 
. |Dry storage }.......... ft: 
a . |Dry storage |........., . 
GROUP 4 ; 
String beans.| 8 qt. |Canning....| {Selling } ; 
Freezing 60 ft. 
.- |Freezing Canning 8 crowns 
.. |Freezing a é 4 plants 
8 plants 
mae cea Freezing —_| Canning 45 ft. 
‘ , ‘\Drying 
Beans dried.| 7 Ib. |Drying PSs etiie ery 105 ft. 
OMS ore acts 0 pt. |Canning Drying 
b. |Freezing 100 ft. 
. |Cellar 400 ft. 
sweet..... Y bu. |Dry storage |.... : Bits 
Squash. .... 10 Ib. |Dry storage |.... .}1 plant 3 plants 
FRUITS 
. | {Cellar 
Canning 
Peaches..... 12 qt. |{Canning _—_Use also 
Freezing _ for jelly, 
Pears....... qt. | Canning marma- 
GROUP 2 lade, 
Cherries 4qt. |fCanning conserve, 
\Freezing jam, 
Plums...... 5 qt. | Canning butter, 
Rhubarb 4qt. | Canning spicing 
Berries, .... qt. | {Canning 
\ Freezing 
About Inoculation 
We get hundreds of letters each year 
asking whether inoculating garden seed 
with ‘‘Nitragin’” pays. The answer is, 
YES, DECIDEDLY, YES. It is only of 
value on garden peas, beans and Sweet 
Peas, but on these it makes a world of 
difference in the vigor of the plant and 
the amount of yield. We sell many thou- 
sands of packets each year. A 15c pkt. is 
enough for the average gardener as 1 
pkt. treats 5 lb. of seed. Hasy to apply. 
Full directions on the package, 9 
Another big aid to improving crops is 
the new Hormone-Vitamin concentrate 
“GROW-AID,”’ which stimulates quick 
root growth and makes for quicker and 
heavier crops on all garden seeds, flower 
seeds and nursery stock. It is relatively 
new, but works wonders wherever used. 
Try it this year and make your garden 
EXTRA high-yielding. 
Tomato—See Chart 
Sow seed eight to ten weeks before 
setting in the field. i 
Any of the early bunch vegetables can 
be grown between the tomato rows. 
Drive three stakes around a tomato 
plant and fasten a barrel hoop to them 
and allow the plant to grow up through. 
This will act as a support. s 
PRUNING: Tomato vines are trained 
to a single stem, or two stems. You can 
pinch out the terminal bud when_the 
plants reach the height of about 5 ft. 
The vines should be gone over each week 
and any new shoots starting out from 
the main stem should be pinched off. Do 
not pinch off the blossom stem. If you 
are in doubt, allow this bud to. remain 
until the next week. 
Crop Features to Utilize 
Crops Occupying the Ground All of the 
Growing Season: Beans (Pole, Snap), 
‘Beans (Pole, Lima), Chard (Swiss), Cu- 
cumbers, Eggplant, Muskmelon, Okra, 
Onions, Parsley, Parsnip, Peppers, Sweet 
Potatoes, Irish Late- Potatoes, Pump- 
kins, Salisfy, Squash. (Winter), Spinach 
(New Zealand), Tomatoes, Watermelons. 
Crops Occupying Ground Part of Sea- 
son and May Be Followed by Others: 
Beans (Bush), Beets, Cabbage, Cabbage 
(Chinese), Carrots, Corn, Kale, Kohl- 
rabi, Lettuce, Mustard, Onions (Green), 
Peas, Potatoes (Early), Spinach, Turnip 
(Spring), Rutabaga (Spring). 
Crops Which May. Follow Others: 
Beans (Bush), Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, 
Corn, Celery, Lettuce, Mustard, Late 
Potatoes, Rutabaga (Fall), Spinach, 
Turnips (Fall). 
Crops Which May Be Utilized in Inter-. 
planting: (Barly, quick-maturing, nar- 
row-spaced) Beans (Bush), Beets 
(Early), Carrots (Early), Lettuce, Mus- 
tard, Onions (Sets), Peas (Early), Rad- 
ish, Spinach. (Later, slower-growing, 
wider-spaced) Broccoli, Brussels Sprout, 
Corn, Cucumber, Muskmelons, Cabbage, 
Pumpkins, Spinach (New Zealand), To- 
matoes, Squash, Watermelons, 
Crops Which May Be Planted Together 
in the Same Row: (Quick-germinating 
and maturing) Lettuce (Leaf), Mustard 
Radish, Spimach. (Slower-germinating 
and maturing) Beets, Chard, Carrots, 
Leek, Spinach (New Zealand), Parsley, 
Parsnips, Salisfy, Onions (Seed). 
Crop Succession 
Plant radish seed very thin and follow 
at once with parsnip, carrot, parsley, 
asparagus, onion or leek right in the 
Same row. Pull the radish and use when 
it is large enough. : 
Plant Beets, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mus- 
tard, Spinach, Onion Sets, Radishes, 
early Beans or Peas, between rows of 
late Cabbage, Melons, Squash or Toma- 
toes. 
Plant Radishes very early, followed by 
early Cabbage plants set every two feet 
in the row. After the cabbage is off, 
sow late turnips or Chinese Cabbage. 
Plant two rows of Pota- 
toes between each two Wa- 
tatoes after the Melons are 
gone, 
Follow early Peas and 
Beans with late Cabbage. 
Celery may follow early 
Peas, Beans, Lettuce, Radish or Spinach. 
Plant late turnips in vacant spaces 
about the garden. ; 
Building a 
HEAVY PIN . 
HINGES 
FA HOOK TO 
\eax A 
HOLD SASH 
UP WHEN 
NEEDED 
If, you don’t want to go to the trouble 
of making a hot bed or haven’t enough 
good manure on hand to build one, you 
can do very well with a cold frame. 
A cold frame is built same as you build 
termelon rows and dig po-. 
Bug Dust 
Since gardening began, insects have 
waged war on gardens.- Today’s gar- 
dener has a powerful weapon against 
bugs in the form of Bug Dust. 
You really won’t believe how well our 
BUG DUST works until you see it work 
yourself. Some folks call it a ‘‘Miracle 
Dust.’’ 
BUG DUST works three ways. It not 
only is a STOMACH POISON, but a 
CONTACT POISON and FUNGICIDE— 
ALL IN ONE DUST. 
No need to buy three dusts—use our 
“BUG DUST.” 
Henry Field’s BUG DUST is safe. Does 
not harm even the most delicate plants 
when used as directed. Absolutely leaves 
no poisonous residue. 
Dust plants early before heavy infesta- 
tion appears. Dust both top and bottom 
of leaves. Redust once a week until con- 
trolled and after any heavy rain. For 
cutworms, mix Bug Dust with soil at 
base of plants. Bug Dust can be used as 
a spray by diluting 6 teaspoonful in gal- 
lon of water. Dust animals and poultry 
to rid them of fleas and lice. 
USE BUG DUST ON 
Beans Alyssum 
Cabbage Carnations 
Cauliflower Dahlias 
Cucumbers Gladiolus 
Egg Plant Gen, Foliage 
Lettuce Tris 
pene Peonies 
Peppers Roses 
Pumpkins Sweet Peas 
Potato Snapdragons 
Squash Violets 
Tomato Currants 
Watermelon Grapes 
Asters Gooseberries 
House Plants Strawberry 
Asparagus All Flowers 
And all other small Plants. 
Starting Plants in the House 
A hot bed is the best place to start 
plants if you are willing to go to the 
trouble to make a good one. However, a 
box of good dirt placed in a south win- 
dow of the house where it will get as 
much sunshine as possible and in a room 
where the temperature does not vary 
much is good. 
If the soil you use does not already 
contain a large percent of humus, use 
about 50 percent well rotted manure. 
This amount is only suggestive, as there 
is a wide difference in different samples 
of dirt. What we mean by ‘‘Well rotted 
manure”’ is manure that could almost be 
classed as dirt. Don’t use fresh manure. 
Cover all small seeds about one-half 
inch deep. Make the rows 8 to 4 inches 
apart. Keep the surface soil moist until 
the plants are up or you may have trou- 
ble in getting a stand. 
Hot Bed 
If you wish to make a hot bed, send 
for free instruction sheet. 
Cold Frame 
the frame for a hot bed. It should be 
about eighteen inches high at the back 
side and twelve inches at the front. 
Place it in a sheltered sunshiny situation 
and back around so that the wind will 
not get in. Cover with glass or Glass 
Cloth. 
Plant seed in a cold frame a week or 
so later than you would in a hot bed. 
- You can grow ali hardy vegetables, such 
as cabbage, cauliflower, beets, lettuce, 
radish, onions, and kohlrabi. 
Beets, lettuce and onions transplant 
as easily as cabbage. And you can ad- 
vance radishes a couple of weeks by 
planting them in this cold frame. Of 
course, the soil should be rich and 
mellow. 
“Winter Storage of Vegetables 
Surplus garden vegetables can be 
stored in an unheated garage, storage 
house or shed for a month or so depend- 
ing on how low the temperatures fall. 
Store only those vegetables which are 
in good condition. Dig beets, potatoes, 
turnips, carrots and rutabagas as late as 
possible before the ground begins to 
freeze and cut the tops off. Do not clean 
the dirt from them, but place in boxes 
and pack in sand, loam and sawdust. 
The temperature should be between 35 
and 40 degrees. 
The vegetables can also be stored in a 
basement, in which the temperatures 
can be kept down and ventilation pro- 
vided, on racks, shelves, slat bins or 
boxes, raised off the floor. A concrete 
floor should be sprinkled every few days 
and a dirt floor kept somewhat damp. 
Pumpkins, squash and sweet potatoes 
should be stored at temperatures be- 
tween 55 and 65. 
When storage is required for a longer 
period, an outdoor storage pit may be 
made by digging a pit the desired size 
and deep enough to stand in. The vege- 
tables may be stored in boxes, bins or 
shelves. Lay heavy boards over the pit 
even with the surface and cover with a 
mound of earth. A ditch should be dug 
_"MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, lowa 
around the mound to lead surface water 
away. A door should be fitted to the en- 
trance, preferably two doors with an air 
space between them to keep out the 
frost. 
When the quantity to be stored does 
not require a very large pit, vegetables 
may be laid in a box, which is lined and 
covered with straw, set in a small pit 
covered with earth. Or a barrel may be 
used, or a conical mound may be made, 
to cover vegetables piled up like a pyra- 
mid. 
Do not close outdoor root cellars tightly 
until the temperature inside has dropped 
close to freezing, and do not cover earth 
pits until the soil has cooled off thor- 
oughly. 
Best Vegetables for Freezing 
SNAP BEANS—Stringless Green Pod, Wade. 
SNAP BEANS, WAX POD—Pencil Pod Black 
Wax, Cherokee Wax. 
LIMA BEANS—Green Seeded Baby Lima, Ford- 
hook 242, 
CORN—Y-81, Giant Bantam Hybrid, Golden 
Cross Bantam, Hoosier Gold Hybrid, Hybrid 
Stowell’s Evergreen. 
~- GREENS—Swiss Chard, Kale, Spinach. 
PEAS—Little Marvel, Freezonian. 
