Trees 
Top not 
Pruned 
Properly 
~- Pruned 
top 
Proper 
Way to 
Set and 
Prune 
Trees 
Crampe: 
and 
NC SEEN 
Likely to Die 
Likely-to-Live 
Fruit Trees 
Should be set as indicated in the “5 Hasy 
Steps in Planting.’’ Also see Planting Chart 
on Page 18. Set Apples 30 to 40 feet apart 
and Peach, Apricot, Cherries, Plum and Pear, 
15 to 20 feet apart. Some folks prefer to 
plant Apples 40 feet apart and set smaller 
trees such as Peach, Plum and Cherry in as 
filler trees. Small fruits, asparagus, and 
rhubarb may be planted in the orchard to 
give you immediate revenue. 
_ PRUNE FRUIT TREES before planting as 
illustrated in picture—both roots and tops. 
Cut just above a bud which faces out. When 
properly pruned, they should not have more 
than 3 to 4 branches, and these should be 
cut to not more than 4 or 5 buds. As tree 
grows, prune in early spring, remove crossed 
and crotched limbs. Trim apples to a central 
leader with limbs on different sides at differ- 
ent heights,.peaches so they grow low (cut 
back leader and all branches very short), and 
don’t prune cherries or plums except to re- 
move broken wood or crossed branches. 
Shade Trees 
Plant the same as fruit trees. Be sure the 
soil is tramped in firmly about the roots, and 
that there are no air pockets left. Give plenty 
of space between trees. Large growers— 
Elms, Soft Maples, etc. 30 to 50 feet. Medium 
gvowers—Chinese Elm, American Linden, etc. 
25 to 40 feet. They may be set closer if you 
need to. At the time of planting, cut back 
all side branches at least one-half, but do 
not cut back the main stem. Remove entirely. 
any branch that threatens to become a double 
leader or any branch that forms too sharp 
a crotch with the main stem and might be 
broken later by a snow load. Cut off bruised 
and broken roots. If any further pruning is 
necessary, prune in early spring to remove 
bad crotches* and cross limbs. In all pruning 
be sure not to leave any stubs but cut the 
branch off flush with the trunk. 
Any shade trees over 6 feet tall should be 
staked for at least a year. Drive a good 
strong stake deeply into the ground’ beside 
the tree, and tie the tree loosely to the stake 
with several ties. If rope or wire is used, 
run the same to an old inner tube or wrap 
in burlap or rags so not to cut into the trunk 
of the tree. 
Windbreaks 
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PR gt 
‘ 
2 aParoa’a aon 
Suggested varieties suitable for each row; 
any other good windbreak plants will do: 
Rows 1 and 2 
Chinese Elm, Caragana, Russian Olive, Wil- 
low, Mulberry—planted 4 ft. apart. 
Rows 3 and 4 2 
Carolina Poplar, Soft Maple, Elm, Ash— 
planted 6 ft. apart. 
Rows 5 and 6 
Cottonwood, Am. Elm, ©. Elm—planted 
6 feet apart. 
Rows 7, 8, 9, and 10. 
Austrian Pine, Spruce, 
to 10 ft. apart. 
Besides giving protection, the windbreak 
is a sourge of firewood, lumber, and posts, 
and a never ending satisfaction of having 
something green and cooling right’ at hand 
for both man and animal. 
Here’s a quick, easy way to plant wind- 
break trees. First take a walking plow, 
throw out a deep furrow along the row of 
trees to be planted. (Plow fast enough so 
as to throw dirt well out of furrow.) Second, 
put each individual tree against the straight 
edge of the furrow, then throw the loose 
dirt in over the roots. Pack firmly with the 
feet. CUT ALL SEEDLINGS OR TREES 
BACK TO LESS THAN HALF THEIR 
HEIGHT AS SOON AS PLANTED: (except 
Evergreens, which require no pruning). Use 
the cultivator plenty the first two. summers. 
elant either fall or spring with good re- 
sults. 
Cedar—planted 8 
House Plants 
Planting and cultural directions are in- 
cluded in shipment. 
NURSERY PLANTING TIPS 
Linally growing. Al- 
Vines 
Plant at least 2 or 2% ft. out from the 
house so you will have good drainage. Va- 
rieties that bloom during the spring months 
should not be pruned in the fall, except for 
the removal of dead wood. Varieties which 
produce blooms on new wood in summer and 
fall, should not be pruned until they have 
become well established. Then the vines may 
be cut back to the height of about 3 ft. to 
encourage vigorous growth. U 
Climbing vines should have good soil and 
plenty of water. Cut back when planted and 
tie or stake securely. Later train to solid 
trellis as motion is injurious to the plants. 
Vines for North and East Side: Clematis, 
Ivy, and Wisteria. 
Vines for South and West Side: Silver 
Lace, Searlet Honeysuckle, Pink Flame, Ivy, 
Bittersweet, Trumpet. 
CLEMATIS—Clematis thrives best in rich 
garden loam. Sand or peat moss may be 
added to heavy soil to loosen it up. The soil 
should be well drained. It is best to mix 
some lime in with the soil when planting. 
Place the crown of the vine about 2 inches 
below the surface. Don’t cultivate as they 
like to be left alone. In the fall, any dead 
wood can be removed which is the only prun- 
ing needed. 
Shrubs 
Plant as described in 
general instructions. Trim 
back within several 
inches of the ground after 
planting, to make room 
for bushy growth. (See 
Illustration.) 1 ft. of 
dirt should be mounded 
up over each Fall-planted 
shrub and left until 
Spring. Set small va- 
rieties 1 to 2 ft. apart, 
medium grower, 1% to 3 
ft.; tall grower 3 to 6 ft. 
apart. 
Shrubs require little 
pruning. In no case prune 
square across the top as 
natural habit of growth. Cut branches off 
at ground. This will foree young growth. 
Prune early blooming shrubs like Spirea Vis 
H. and Lilacs right after they bloom. Prune 
midseason and late blooming shrubs in late 
fall or early spring. 
If planting in beds, remove all sod and 
spade up space between plants. In planting 
around foundation, stay at least 2 ft. and 
with large growing shrubs, as much as 38 ft. 
to 4 ft. away. 
Miscellaneous Tips 
Planting or Transplanting—Fall or early 
spring are the times best suited for trans- 
planting. Practically anything can be trans- 
planted in those periods providing proper 
care is taken that the plants do not dry out, 
and that the roots are not too long exposed 
to sun or wind. In transplanting from one 
location to another, or from one home to 
another in case you 
are moving, it is 
safest to move as 
much dirt as possl- 
ble. in a ball along 
with the root. This 
is particularly true 
of Evergreens and ° 
large trees with 
trunk more than 4 
inches in diameter. 
Always replant at 
the same depth that 
the plant was orig- 
this spoils their 
Be sure to tamp soil 
firmly around roots 
when planting trees, 
ways tramp the dirt 
in well around the 
roots so there are 
no airpockets. Al- 
ways leave a cup- 
like depression 
around the plant so 
it may be well watered occasionally until 
it is well established and growing. And, a 
good safe rule is to prune back one-half of 
the top of most any plant that you move, 
with the exception of the Evergreen and the 
main trunks of shade trees. If necessary 
to store plants awhile in the winter before 
planting in a new location, take up lots of 
dirt with the roots and cover the ball of soil 
with burlap, and place in a dark cool corner 
of your basement. Water occasionally except 
the strawberries, as they are better allowed 
to be quite dry. Be sure the hole you make 
at the new place is plenty big. 
Winter Mulech—A Winter Mulch is es- 
sential with all newly planted plants—no 
matter what kind they are, After the first 
winter except in extreme northern states, it 
is not absolutely necessary that it be applied 
except to strawberry beds. Strawberries 
should always be muleched. On fresh planted 
shrubs, trees, roses, peonles, oriental poppies, 
the best possible mulch is a good mound of 
dirt pulled over the plants just before freez- 
ing time. On roses, shrubs and trees, the 
mound should be at least a foot high. It 
won’t do any harm if it is 18 inches high. 
For Oriental Poppies and peonies it should be 
at least 6 to 9 inches. This is to keep the 
plants from -heaving out of the ground by 
frost action. It is desirable to cover this 
mound with straw, hay or some sort of a 
litter 3 or 4 inches deep if you have the 
same to put on. It is not absolutely necessary 
that this be done, ex- 
cept that the litter 
keeps the soil mound 
from washing away in 
the winter thaws. In 
the spring after the 
ground thaws, pull 
these mounds of soil 
away and the plants 
will start to grow. 
On Perennials and 
strawberries and such 
plants with a _ soft 
erown, where a pile 
of dirt cannot be put 
on the plants without 
injury, cover after 
shrubs. Soak ground 
well clear below roots, 
When you water, soak 
the ground down to 
the roots. That is 
better than sprinkling 
with a nozzle, 
the ground freezes with about 6 inches of 
Oat or Wheat straw or some other light 
mulch that will not pack and rot. 
apply until after the ground freezes or the s 
mice will get in and make their holes and 
eat your plants during the winter. 
remove mulch until after the ground com- 
pletely thaws in the spring and then remove 
top of the mulch first and then gradually 
remove the remainder. 
stirring the ground after rain or watering. 
In dry weather 
week. The best plan 
around the plant and fill it full of water 
several times until the ground is soaked 12 
inches or more deep. 
coped away, then’ fill up the basin with dry 
irt. 
of the hose without a nozzle than it is to any shrub, 
stand and sprinkle with a nozzle. 
Henry Field Seed & Nursery Co., "MIDWEST’'S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” 
(L) NURSERY STOCK 
IS ALIVE 
Ae eee 
(2) PLANT AT ONCE 
When stock arrives plant 
AT ONCE if you can. 
Soak roots (but not tops) 
in water before planting, 
especially if the stock has 
dried out some en route. 
Do NOT expose roots to 
air or sun, You can leave 
roots of all plants in water 
for 24 hours except straw- 
berries and perennials. 
Plant all nursery stock at 
once if you possibly can. 
FILL HOLE AND TRAMP 
SOIL. THE UGHTER THE 
SOIL THE HARDER THE TRAMP 
(3) HOW TO STORE 
IF YOU CAN’T PLANT 
AT ONCE, and if weather 
is warm, “heel in’ as 
shown. Cover _ stock at) — 
least 6” deep with moist 
soil, Strawberries and! 
perennials should be plant- 
ed at once or kept moist in| 
their packing. IF WEATH-| — 
ER IS COLD, store in frost) — 
proof place (cave is good).| — 
Leave stock in packing and} — 
keep moist by sprinkling. 
Plant as soon as you can, 
Remember nursery 
stock is alive and must 
be handled with care. 
DO NOT EXPOSE ROOTS 
TO SUN OR AIR, Keep 
damp, cool, well covered 
and away from freezing 
temperatures until 
planted. If you can’t 
plant at once, open pack- 
age, moisten well and 
keep covered with damp 
packing. Or treat as per 
No, 3. 
4 ALWAYS KEEP ROOTS COVERED 
at AMT 
OIG HOLE LARGE 
ENOUGH 10 REcEIvEl| |" BREAKUP 
PLANT WITHOUT = ji? sae WHEN IT IS VERY 
BENDING ROOTS iN” HARD, : L 
? pa IS 
(5) HOW TO SET Hee 
(4) HOW TO DIGHOLE Then half fill hole with fine top soil,| 
Dig hole large to hold roots without 
crowding or bending. Set stock 1” deep- 
er than it stood in nursery row. Trim 
jogging tree. Pack earth firmly by tramp- 
ing to avoid any air pockets about roots.! 
Slowly pour water in to fill hole. Let 
off broken end tips of roots with SHARP settle, then fill with earth and tramp) — 
knife. Loosen soil in hole and set roots down firmly. Leave a depression around! — 
in natural spreading position. tree to collect and hold moisture. ss 
SHRUB PLANTING CHART 
PRUNING TIPS—See notes at 
MATURE LOCATIONS 
HEIGHT DO WELL IN WHEN BLOOM bottom of chart 
Pink Almond.............. 4-6 ft. ‘ Sun April Light—after bloomin 
Althea 2026 .-. Ge. os doer 5-7 ft. Sun Aug.-Sept. i Early Spring—light 
Barberry... .6.:.2=+ suede 2-4 ft. Sunor Shade | Red berries & foliage Light—any time 
Beauty Bush.............. 4-6 ft. Sun May-June After blooming—light — 
Butterfly Bush............ 3-5 ft. Sun All Summer Cut to ground each winter 
Deutzia-Pride of R......... 5-7 ft. Part shade and | May-June Light—after blooming 
y sun } 
Flowering Crab............ 12-14 Sun May : Light—after bloomi 
Golden Bell............... 4-6 ft. Part shade or April Light after ploahitiig 
- . sun artes! 
Golden Elder.............. 4-6 ft. Full sun Yellow foliage Fairly heavy—any time Be 
Hydrangea... oes. 3-5 ft. |. Part shade A. G. early summer Heavy—late fall or early spring 
east or No. : = ah 
side ) = 
P. G. Late summer ee , 3 
Honeysuckle. . . 6-10 ft. Shade or sun April Light unless for hedge—Early s 
Lilacs..... 6-8 ft. Part shade or May Light—after blooming ie 
‘ sun , , 
Mock Orange.............. 6-8 ft. Part shade or April Light—after blooming 
sun 
Flowering Plum........... 8-9 ft, Full sun April Light—after blooming 
Rediud: 2 area eas 12-15 ft. Part shade or April None 
; sun * 
Snowball: «sock sca vida 6-8 ft. Part shade or May-June Early spring—light — 
; sun 
Snowberty 5 ns ties on 3-4 ft. "| Shade or sun Waxy white berries in | Light—early spring 
“ * mid summer 
* “SpireatA.\Wy ease, . cares IA-2% ft. Sun All summer Can be cut to ground each spring. 
é Cut off flowers as they dryup 
Spirea Van Houttei........ 4-6 ft. Shade or sun April-May Light-cut from ground after blooming 
Spirea Thunbergia......... 3-5 ft. April Light—after blooming- 3 
Spirea Billardi............ 3-5 ft. Sun i June-July Light—Early spring 
SplreasRrunisengcnecrattreicls 4-6 ft. Part shade or April-May After blooming 
sun : 
SUMACS «x. as 6-8 ft_ Sa or sun US foliage red in| Any time needed 
% a a a 
Tamarix. ;.,.:cgebe ennai 6-8 ft. Sun or shade May-June-July Early spring. Every few years cut 
3! ground if plant is spindly yes 
Weigela.-:....cBermechesyss0 « 4-6 ft. Part shade May Light—after blooming 2 
*Light pruning means removing only crooked or very old woody stems when needed. 
*+*Heavy pruning means plants can be cut to ground each winter if low growth is desired. 
These plants bloom on new wood. 
iy aor Zar PEONY ->— NoTice—— 
PERENMALS, LILIES, BULBS, ROOTS AND TUBERS 
MORNING STAR MUST BE PLANTED IN WELL-DRAINED SO/L- 
aN uy WD 
IN. 
bea. 
SD oie 
Ger LILY REGAL 
About Fall Planting 
_ Besides the fall bulbs, such as tulips, hya-= 
cinths, narcissus and the like which must be 
Do not 
fall planted, almost all hardy nursery stock 
can be planted in the fall as well as in 
the spring. In fact, many plants do even 
BETTER fall planted than spring set. f 
You see, by planting stock in October and 
November when the stock is dormant, yo 
give the plant a chance to become estab- 
lished in its new location before growing 
time starts. The roots, below the 
Do not 
Watering—Hoe or cultivate frequently, 
frost 
line, START GROWTH AT ONCH, and for 
this reason, fall planted stock often is way 
ahead of spring planted stock the following 
summer. Do not expect most fall planted ma- 
terial to make top growth before winter be: 
cause it won't. : ; / " 
Fall planting is just the same as spring 
planting except pruning should be done early 
the next spring, and a mound of dirt at least 
a foot high should be pulled up on top of 
; b, tree, Toses, peonies, oriental 
poppies, lilies, and left there until spring. 
water thoroughly once a 
is to make a basin 
After the water has 
It is much better to let the water run out 
re 
Cis 
- 
Shenandoah, low 
is eho te ae 7 
