TULIPS 
Planting can be done any time between late September and mid- 
November when the ground is moist. Loosen the soil in full spade’s 
depth and pulverize it. Add compost or leafmold if soil is stiff; also 
add some bonemeal; then relevel the bed. 
For a good-looking clump, plant not less than ten in a group, allow- 
ing 5 inches between bulbs. Lay them out on the ground, where you 
want them. Lift the first bulb and stab your hand trowel its full 
depth, 6 to 8 inches, straight down into the soft soil directly below 
where the bulb lay. Pull the trowel blade toward you to widen open- 
ing. With your other hand, insert a bulb with pointed end up. Press 
its base firmly against bottom of the hole. Pull up and out on your 
trowel and let the soil fall back to fill. Press the soil over each bulb 
as planted. Give the bulbs two to four weeks to start their roots 
before watering. Tulips should not have too much moisture before 
they have made roots; in that condition they are easy victims to rot 
or other infections. 
Top feed with Sacco Plant Food in the spring when bulbs are 
2 to 3 inches above ground. This will insure a stronger stem and 
truer color. 
POT CULTURE 
Pot up the bulbs as soon as you receive them, in loose, coarse soil. 
The addition of peat moss may prove beneficial, since a continuous 
supply of moisture is needed and the soil should never be permitted 
to dry out. The bulbs are planted about 1% inch apart in bulb pans 
or 4-inch-deep flats and watered well. 
Bury the pots in a pit or trench, with 8 to 10 inches of straw or 
leaves and soil on top and around the sides of the containers. A root- 
making period of eight to twelve weeks is required before pots can be 
brought into the warmth of the house or greenhouse. 
Lilies 
OUTDOOR CULTURE 
Lilies must have perfect drainage, such as a gentle slope can pro- 
vide. Air drainage is important, too, for a good breeze can keep 
many garden pests and diseases away. If your site is level and the 
soil heavy, then prepare raised beds for the bulbs. Take care not to 
damage the roots in planting. 
Lilies need sunlight, at least until 2 p.m. Filtered sunlight or 
semi-shade may bring out the more delicate colors, but they tend to 
make weak stems and soft flowers. Do not plant near house walls, 
walks or drives that reflect sunlight or heat. 
Lilium candidum should be planted with not more than 2 inches of 
settled soil over the top of the bulbs. Others need more covering, 
depending on the species. 
Lilies are gross feeders and root deeply. They need a porous, well- 
aerated soil, rich in humus and well-balanced plant food. They like 
a good mulch of well-rotted cow manure, rich compost or decaying 
leafmold, and this can be applied several times during the growing 
season. The mulch keeps the soil cool, discourages weak growth and 
eliminates the need for surface cultivation which might hurt the stem 
roots. Shallow-rooted ground cover keeps the ground shaded and is 
beneficial. Do not expect your Lilies to compete with strong-growing 
perennials or shrubs. 
POT CULTURE 
The soil mixture must be loose and porous. Two parts sandy loam, 
one of leafmold, and one of sand is good. An inch of gravel should be 
placed in the bottom for drainage. Fill the pot half full of soil mix, 
and a handful of sand, set the bulb on the sand, then surround with 
more sand. The pot is then filled with soil mix, watered, labeled, 
staked and put in a cool place until spring. Control aphids and fun- 
gous diseases with a good spray. 
LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY 
Lily-of-the-Valley can be had in flower from January through May 
by successive plantings. It is grown from specially pre-cooled bulbs 
or pips that come from Europe, especially Germany, and are sold in 
bundles. Grow them in a box 8 inches deep, in a deep bulb pan, or 
in a bench if large quantities are wanted. Sand, peat or sphagnum 
moss may be used as the planting medium. 
The pips are planted with the crowns extending about 1% inch 
above the surface. Keep them covered with heavy paper for about 
two weeks, then gradually let them have full light. Bottom heat is 
wanted, about 70 to 80 degrees. The covered propagating bench is a 
good place to grow them. Water heavily during this period, tapering 
off when the flower buds appear. The pips are useless once they have 
been forced. 
CALLA LILIES 
The Callas are -good subjects to grow because they require so 
little attention. The flowers last a long time when the plants are 
grown slowly, and the plant continues to provide attractive and 
useful foliage after the flowers are gone. 
The rhizomes may be potted up any time from August through 
December. Smaller ones can go into 5 or 6-inch pots. They are not 
fussy as to soil, and your regular compost should prove excellent. 
Callas will grow in any temperature from 50 to 70 degrees, but the 
flowers will have more substance and last longer when grown at 50 
to 55 degrees. The rhizomes should be watered sparingly until growth 
starts. Then they can take more water, and will be benefited by one 
or two feedings of ammonium sulphate solution. Flowers come in 
CROCUS 
Plant in a well-drained location where they will have full sun. 
They may be used in the rock garden or under shrubs and perennials, 
where they will bloom before the larger plants show their leaves. 
Set the corms 4 inches deep, in groups, and do not cut off the foliage 
until it has thoroughly ripened. 
FREESIA 
You miss something really worth while if you don’t grow a few 
pots of Freesias. The foliage is scraggly and unattractive, but the 
blooms are fragrant and lovely. You can have them for cutting by 
Christmas if you plant corms in August and grow them at 55 to 60 
degrees. Plant them in shallow bulb pans or 4-inch-deep flats. 
Use a light soil consisting of four parts rotted sod and manure loam, 
and one of peat or leafmold. Fill the pans or flats and press the corms 
into the soil. They are cornucopia-shaped and the point ts the top. 
Water well and place unter the greenhouse bench or in a pit or cold- 
frame protected from frost. Do not water again until growth starts. 
You can grow them at any temperature from 48 to 60 degrees. 
Flowers can be had from late December into March. 
Supports are needed, and a circular frame made of 44 or 14 inch 
mesh wire around the inside rim of the pot, or of bamboo stakes and 
string, is satisfactory. 
Dutch, English and Spanish bulbous Iris are sutted for winter 
flowering in the greenhouse. Wedgwood, Imperator, White Excelsior 
and Yellow Queen are fine varieties. They are grown for cut flowers 
in flats or bulb pans. Plant the bulbs during September, about 2 
inches apart and 3 inches deep. Water thoroughly and treat the same 
as tulips and narcissus. Start bringing them into the greenhouse 
in November. They grow best at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees. 
OXALIS 
A delightful subject for pots and hanging baskets. Grow in a soil 
that is light, and feed occasionally with liquid manure or ammonium 
sulphate. In the spring the plants may be set in the rock garden, 
where they often bloom on until you lift and bring them into the 
greenhouse in the fall. 
TRANSPORTATION 
We prepay transportation charges on orders of $5.00 or 
more if East of the Mississippi. West of the Mississippi, add 
10% to the amount of the order. On all orders of less than 
$5.00, add 50c for packing and postage. 
Note: Certain orders for heavy shrubs, trees, plants, etc., 
must be shipped by Parcel Post or Express Collect. Fertilizers 
must be shipped Expre:s or Freight Collect. 
TERMS 
Unless you have established credit with us, send cash, check 
or money order with your order. Because of the perishable 
nature of the material, no C.O.D. orders can be accepted. To 
establish credit, send two financial references. No refunds or 
replacements made unless claim is entered in writing within 
five days after receipt of goods. 
After your order has been placed, please do not ask us to 
change or cancel it. During the shipping season several thou- 
sand orders are handled, and it ts impossible to look for any 
one particular order without spending hours of time. 
22 
J. HOWARD FRENCH 
