FERTILIZER 
Be sure to keep fertilizer away from the bulbs. A LITTLE well rotted manure worked into 
the soil at least 6 months before planting your bulbs is o.k. You can use a little bone meal 
under the bulbs, providing you put at least 1% inches of dirt over the bone meal before you 
plant. Keep fertilizer away from your bulbs, though, and use it very sparingly. I don’t use 
any on my glads. A light side dressing may be benficial if applied to the center of the row 
and away from the bulbs. Side dress, if you insist on doing this, when your glads get their 
fifth leaf. I don’t, though. As glads like acid soil a handful of peat moss around each bulb 
should be beneficial, especially if you live in California or where your soil or water is inclined 
to be alkaline. For the third time—keep fertilizer away from the bulbs. 
ALKALINE SOIL 
Glads prefer soil on the acid side. If your soil is alkaline use approximately 4 pounds of 
sulphur per 100 square feet of soil. Rake it in the top of the soil after planting. Do not spade 
it in. Keep it wet. Peat moss is a help. 
WATERING AND CULTIVATING 
Water a lot. Glads like lots of water and good drainage. For sandy soil, water every three 
days (every day if it gets over 100 degrees hot)—real heavy soil every 10 days. Give a good 
soaking each time. 
CUTTING BLOOMS 
When cutting your glads be sure to leave at least 4 leaves on the plant. Without the 
leaves a new bulb cannot be developed. You can pick your glads any time after the first 
floret is ready to open. 
DIGGING 
You do not have to wait until the leaves get dry to dig. You can dig six weeks after they 
finish blooming. 
STORING BULBS 
After your bulbs are dug let them dry for two to four weeks depending on the tempera- 
ture. Do not dry in the sun if the temperature goes over 85 degrees. In about three weeks 
clean off the roots and the old bulb. Separate the bulblets. Dust with 5% DDT and store 
them where they will keep dry—the drier the better. Do not put them over 2% inches deep 
in boxes though. 
GARDEN CLUBS 
Many garden clubs sweeten their treasury by buying bulbs from the wholesale list and 
re-selling them to club members at retail price and putting the profit in their treasury. Your 
garden club shouldn’t let this opportunity pass. I have a soft spot in my heart for garden 
clubs because they do a great deal to keep their members up with the world. I just can’t help 
giving garden clubs quite a bit of overcount. 
PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING 
On retail orders of $2.50 or more we pay the postage. On orders of less than $2.50 please 
add 15 cents to help cover postage, etc. You can send $1 with your order and the balance 
C.O.D. On these we put in extra bulbs because you pay the postage plus C.O.D. fee plus a 
money order fee. You will be ahead sending full remittance with your order. 
We ship Christmas orders in December. We start shipping others in January or if you live 
where it gets cold we start shipping when danger of freezing is over. 
Every year we run out of many varieties. The earlier you order the more likely you are 
apt to get every variety you order. 
PROPAGATING — Glads Changing Color 
The life of a glad if you don’t plant the little bulblets that grow under the old bulb may 
vary from three years for some varieties while other varieties seem to last indfinitely. If you 
don’t grow your own bulblets you will lose some bulbs every year while others will multiply. 
You may have started out in 1950 with 3 bulbs each of 20 varieties or 60 bulbs. By 1953 you 
may still have 60 bulbs but only 8 varieties and most of the rest salmon or white or whatever 
color your most vigorous variety happens to be. In two or three more years you may have 
only two or three varieties left, though you may still have 60 or more bulbs. This has led to 
that old sing-song “fallacy” that all glads revert back to white, salmon, yellow or whatever 
color happens to thrive. Look up “fallacy” in the dictionary, it surely is a good word for the 
above condition. How can a glad revert to something that it wasn’t to begin with? About the 
only reverting that I know of is in Leading Lady which is a sport of Picardy and it does revert 
back to Picardy once in a while but the chances other than this are not one in 50,000 of a 
glad changing color in your garden. They just don’t. 
Now, don’t write me a letter and tell me that you know your glads changed color in your 
garden because if you do I will just throw your letter away. However, I will allow one in 
50,000 as an occasional sport other than Leading Lady or Silver Wings. 
In as much as glads don’t change color here is what you can do to keep from losing out 
on glads that die out after a few years. Dig your bulbs and harvest your bulblets. In the 
spring plant the bulblets about 11% inches deep and about 20 to the foot. Some varieties 
produce more bulblets than others. Some varieties germinate better, so in order to keep 
from getting too many of one and not enough of another it would be wise to keep them 
separated with labels. In this way you can increase any of your varieties to any quantity in 
a short number of years and instead of losing varieties you will gain on every one. If you 
don’t dig your bulbs you run a good chance of losing the bulbs or bulblets or both. 
Soak bulblets two weeks in Natraphene solution before planting. Give them lots of water 
and grow them until their tops start to die down. Some may bloom and the rest will grow 
ae blooming size bulbs in one season. You may get a few over 114 inches in diameter the 
irst year. 
+ 
