TRANSPLANTING 
Strawberries are transplanted successfully in many ways, and with 
a variety of tools. For small patches, a garden trowel or small spade is 
very handy, while for large plantings the machine transplanter does a 
very excellent job. Just fan the roots out as much as you can in the 
moist dirt of a deep hole or trench, SET THE PLANT AT THE HEIGHT 
IT ORIGINALLY GREW, and press the soil firmly around the roots. 
Don't bunch up the roots in the ground. Don't leave air pockets. Don't 
puddle the ground around the plant by working it when the ground is 
too wet. 
Each spring a new set of roots starts from the crown of the straw- 
berry plant, and in case of the one that is new set, the crown must be 
in the moist dirt or the new roots will not start and the plant cannot 
thrive. If the crown is covered, it will turn yellow and finally rot. Hence 
the importance of depth in setting. ; 
If the roots of the plants are too long, we cut them back 
to a length of about five inches. Just for convenience in hand- 
ling—it doesn't make any difference in growth. 
We never bother to use water in re-setting if it is done when it 
should be—early. It is a good practice, though, in case of very late 
setting. 
CULTIVATION 
Cultivation should start soon after the plants are set, and continue 
throughout the growing season. Any of the many kinds of good culti- 
vators found on most farms will do most of the work if used often 
enough, but hoeing is indispensable. Keep the weeds down, keep the 
soil loose and friable. 
In dry seasons it is often necessary to imbed the runners in the 
damp underneath soil to enable them to take root early and develop 
a good root system. The first runners should be encouraged to take 
root, for they will make the largest and heaviest plants, and do best in 
the next fruiting season. 
All blossoms should be clipped off in the new patch as 
soon as they are well formed, and from everbearers until the 
plant is thoroughly established, about July Ist. 
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