Delphinium Care and Culture 
As we do not sell seed and as this part of the Delphinium culture 
seems to be the most treacherous, we will take the culture of transplant- 
ing the plant as it will come to you. If you have a problem of germination 
of seed or some other phase of Delphinium culture, please feel free to 
write and we will gladly do our best to help you. 
As your plants arrive, unpack and remove the paper that is around 
them. If dry, wet well and set in airy place until ready to plant. They 
should be planted as soon as they arrive but if due to weather conditions 
or for any other reason it is impossible, they should keep quite well for 
a week or two. 
Where you plant them is not too important but sunshine is important 
to any blooming plant. If I had my choice, full morning sun and partial 
shade in the afternoon would be ideal, but such places are seldom available 
and people raise fine Delphinium anyway, so it may just be my idea. 
Soil should be well prepared by digging in liberal applications of well 
rotted manure. A sprinkling of Bone Meal worked into the ground, good 
drainage and uniform supply of moisture during the growing season are 
essential. 
Feeding: When the first crop of blooms has faded, cut the flower 
spikes off just above the foliage and keep slightly dry for two or three 
weeks, to give the plants time to rest before the new shoots appear above 
the ground. When this takes place, cut the rest of the old stock off, 
sprinkle a teaspoonful of ammonium phosphate around each plant, rake it 
into the soil slightly and water thoroughly. From the new shoots appear- 
ing from the ground select two or three of the strongest and break the rest 
out. The remaining ones will develop into fine spikes again. Do not 
force a new growth late in autumn: rather, keep the plants on the dry 
side, because if forced into bringing a third crop late in the season the 
plants will soon exhaust themselves and gradually die. 
Diseases and Insects: Are more or less a matter of geographic loca- 
tion. What will affect a plant in the North or East may not be heard of 
in another part of the country. 
Here in central Indiana we spray regularly with Rotecide Extra or 
any spray that will kill red spider mite. In the spring we use Fermate or 
Bordeaux Mixture and again in the fall. Fermate can be mixed with 
other sprays. 
The best source of information available we think is the American 
Delphinium Society Year Book. 
Length of Life: Length of life of Delphinium plants is governed by 
several factors. In climates with a long resting period in winter, the 
plants will usually live much longer than in districts where this period is 
confined to but one month of the year. Some may die after the first flow- 
ering, while others live for years. 
Information, Terms, Etc. 
General Terms—Cash with order. We pay delivery charges on all 
orders of $3.00 or more, to any point in the United States, unless other- 
wise stated. Please include 35c to cover costs of packing and handling. 
Method of Shipment—All plants are carefully wrapped and packed. 
Shipment is made the best and cheapest way. Small orders are sent by 
Parcel Post, large orders by Prepaid Express. If you are unable to re- 
ceive orders by Prepaid Express, please advise when placing your order. 
Substitution—We attempt to keep a complete stock of the items 
listed herein, but occasionally we unable to supply certain items ordered. 
If we may substitute, please so indicate on your order blank. Otherwise, 
a refund will be made on those items we are unable to ship. 
We Guarantee Satisfaction. 
Five-Foot Bamboo Cane Stakes 
The best for staking Delphinium. Light to handle; tall, yet not un- 
sightly, and of long duration. For best results, tie every 10 or 12 inches 
with Raffia or other similar material. Sold only in lots of 100. 
100 for $5.00 
