— SS sesh 
Helping a Plant Grow 
The problem is that the root tips have 
become torn from their microscopic con- 
tact with soil particles, hence careful 
packing of loose soil and then watering 
to flush it tightly into place is necessary. 
Each class of plant has separate prefer- 
ences, but generally: 
Pruning 
The best the roots can do is far less 
than the tops need. Nursery-grown, 
transplanted roots contain more roots in 
a practical shipping size, but at best 
much pruning of the top is needed. This 
reduces the need for food and drink to 
@ point the transplanted roots can pro- 
vide for. 
Watering 
Flushing the soil into place thrice a week 
for the first week or two is desirabie, 
unless a good rain falls. Also, the roots 
being damaged and at a disadvantage, 
this extra water enables those roots still 
working to increase their intake. Do 
not give frequent small waterings—they 
draw the roots toward the surface which 
is very bad. Once a week (in drought) 
water very heavily indeed. Chemicals 
are thus dissolved as food for the roots, 
and the stale atmosphere between the 
earth particles is driven out by the 
flood. (When it drains away, fresh air 
Is drawn into its place. Since roots need 
oxygen to breathe, this “pump” effect 
is very important.) 
Feeding 
Most plants in ordinary garden soil need 
no fertilizers. But some do (roses, etc.) 
and any plant can be hastened mate- 
rially in growth by putting reasonable 
quantities of any fertilizer on the top of 
the ground in May. On top, so it dis- 
solves and sinks down to roots; scratch 
it in, to prevent blowing. In May, be- 
cause later feeding may induce soft 
sappy growth that does not harden off 
by autumn (may be damaged the next 
winter). 
Protection 
A mulch of leaves or humus helps keep 
the earth from drying out, hence is a 
substitute for extra water, after the first 
settling of the soil. Wrapping or wax- 
spraying of bark also keeps bark from 
drying out first winter—a common cause 
of damage or loss. 
Helping a Plant Flower 
The most blooms do not come on the 
most vigorous plant. Chemistry decides 
inside the stem which buds are to be 
leaf buds and which flowers. Too much 
pitrogen makes all buds leaves. Hence, 
to encourage blooms, you help the 
leaves and hinder the roots. 
Not much can be done to help the 
leaves except give the utmost sunlight. 
Remove shade, transplant plant, or 
prune out bays so light can enter in- 
terior of thick bushy plants. 
HINDERING ROOTS: First, stop fertiliz- 
ing (except phosphorus, as in bone 
meal). Stop watering, so food still in 
soil will not be dissolved. If neces- 
sary, prune roots with spade or trans- 
plant entirely, clipping back roots. 
THINGS TO AVOID: Do not prune plant 
top severely. Do not fertilize heavily, 
nor water (except in emergency). These 
things actually delay flowering. 
Helping a Plant Fruit 
A flower is a fruit in most cases and in 
most kinds of plants. But two excep- 
tions exist: (1) Inbred named varieties 
of fruits. These must be cross-pollenated 
for heavy yield. See page 50 for de- 
tails; (2) A few kinds in which male and 
female flowers are always on different 
plants (Hollies, Yews and Buttersweet). 
When available, one male of each can 
take care of all the females in the 
garden. 
d th 
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Dwarf Fruit Trees (Lucas). A 
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omplete except on coni- 
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How To Increase Plants (Hot- 
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with Wild Flowers 
THE HOW AND WHY OF 
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by Laurence Manning 
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Don’t deny yourself this small purchase— $3.50 
“Very helpful,” “‘exciting 
The Book of Shrubs (Hottes). 
Grand companion to the above. 
Complete except Azaleas, 
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Climbers and Ground Covers 
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new (1948) and the only work 
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KNOW setrnceehat ee nia $3.00 
(Pellet). 200 pages, 116 illus. 
Four 4-color plates. Reveals 
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How To Landscape Your Grounds 
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BTOUNGS i cee wake $3.50 
postpaid 
Tree Experts Manual (Fenska). 
Outstanding chapters cover the 
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tree feeding, soils, transplant- 
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$5.00 
61 
