Winter Protection 
In the fall, usually about mid-November and before temperatures 
get below 18-20° F. above zero, the plants should be mulched with 
straw to a depth of about 3 inches. In the spring, early April, just 
as the new leaves are starting from the crown, remove part of the 
straw to the space between the rows. leaving a thin covering over 
the plants for the leaves and blossoms to grow through and the 
fruit to rest on later. 
Weed the bed about blossoming time if necessary. Do not fer- 
tilize the bed in the spring of the bearing year unless the soil is very 
poor, or the bed has not been mulched. 
If the rainfall is less than one inch a week, irrigation may increase 
the crop. Apply enough water to equal an inch of rain per week. 
Over-watering may cause rotting of the berries. 
GRAPES 
(See pages 35 and 36) 
Grapes should be grown in an open, airy situation to lessen injury 
from fungous diseases. Slopes are preferable as frosts are later than 
in low spots. Late varieties ripen better on the south side of a build- 
ing or solid fence. The soil must be well drained. 
Planting 
Either one or two-year plants are suitable and may be set either 
in the fall or spring, but fall-set plants should be mounded up 
the first winter. Space vines 8 feet apart. Vines may be trained to 
arbors, porches or a trellis of two wires, one 214 feet above the 
ground, the upper 2 feet above the lower. Posts about 25 feet apart 
with end posts braced. 
Training 
With Kniffen system of training the vine has a trunk to top wire 
and an arm in each direction on both wires. Newly set vines are cut 
back to one or two buds. New shoot is staked up to form a trunk 
and when it reaches top wire is pinched off and laterals led out, 
one along each top wire. The next year two laterals are led along the 
lower wires, the others, being rubbed off. Thereafter, at the annual 
pruning in the spring leave a strong lateral along each wire and 
remove other canes. Laterals should have 6 to 10 buds each. Leave 
more buds on vigorous vines, fewer on weak vines. If vigorous vines 
bloom well but set light crops, leave more buds next year. If vines 
overload and fruit fails to ripen well leave fewer buds next year. 
Grapes should not be summer pruned. 
Fertilize with ammonium nitrate or nitrate of soda at rate of 
one-fourth to one-half pound per vine or stable manure. Strong 
growing vines do not need fertilizing. Keep down weeds until 
August with cultivation or mulch. 
RHUBARB 
(See page 31) 
Rhubarb is highly prized for sauce and pies in the spring before 
other fruits and vegetables are ready. Rich soils are essential and a 
heavy application of manure should be made in advance of plant- 
ing. An annual application of manure, or commercial fertilizer, is 
desirable. Use manure at the rate of 3 to 6 bushels to 100 square 
feet, or 10-10-10 fertilizer plus 1 pound of nitrate of soda, or one- 
half pound of ammonium nitrate for the same area. Plant the roots 
in early spring $ to 4 inches deep and 3 feet apart in the row, ,and at 
one side of the garden as they last for many years. Clean cultivate or 
mulch, as vigorous growth means high yields and tender stalks. Pull 
only a few stalks the second year, but thereafter a full crop may be 
harvested for about two months each spring. 
Early Rhubarb may be had by covering a hill with a sash over 
a box just before growth starts. Rhubarb may be forced in a box of 
soil in the cellar during the winter if the roots are brought in after 
experiencing a hard freeze. 
CURRANTS and GOOSEBERRIES 
(See page 28) 
Currants and Gooseberries are both valuable home garden fruits 
that should be grown much more than at present. Both yield heavy 
crops annually and have many uses in the kitchen. They will grow 
in the sun or in the shade of the north side of a building or fence 
and may be successfully interplanted between young fruit trees or 
grape vines, 
ON SMALL FRUIT GROWING 
Well drained fertile soils, preferably rather heavy in texture, are 
best, but the lighter types will do if heavily fertilized and mulched 
in time of drought. They may be planted in late fall or early spring, 
and spaced 3 feet apart in the row. At planting time cut the canes 
back to 6 or 8 inches. Cultivate shallowly, or mulch to keep down 
weeds, 
Strawy manure may be applied to a depth of 2 or 3 inches to 
provide fertility and act as a mulch. If manure is not available, 
apply about 4 ounces of nitrate of soda or 2 ounces of ammonium 
nitrate per plant in early spring,, but not applying any the year the 
plants are set. On light soils a complete fertilizer may be needed in 
addition to the above, in which case use one-half pound of 5-10-5 
formula to each plant. , 
Currants and Gooseberries in good vigor produce so many canes 
that the bushes soon become too crowded. Pruning consists of re- 
moving all canes over three years old and thinning out the weaker 
remaining canes so that the pruned bush consists of 9 to 10 canes 
evenly divided between 1, 2 and 3 year-old wood. 
Currants for jelly should be picked before fully ripe as there is 
more pectin at that time. Gooseberries make an excellent jam and 
jelly and may be used green for pies and sauce when two-thirds 
grown. 
ASPARAGUS 
(See page 31) : 
Asparagus is an easily grown perennial that is ready to use in 
early spring. The beds last 15 to 20 years and should be set at one 
side of the garden. Set one-year-old roots 18 inches apart in a trench 
4 to 6 inches deep and 4 feet apart if more than one row. Cover the 
roots at first with only two inches of soil, filling in gradually when 
cultivating. Begin cutting the third season and cut for one month. 
In the following years the bed may be cut for two months. Fertilize 
with a complete fertilizer and control weeds. If beetles feed on 
foliage dust wth rotenone. 
BLUEBERRIES 
(See page 34) 
Blueberries are a valuable home garden and commercial fruit and 
deserve a place in every home garden with soils that are acid, or can 
be made acid. Clay soils are not suitable for Blueberries. 
Acid Soil Required 
Acid soils are essential for Blueberries. If in doubt, have the 
soil tested by the Farm Bureau, and if the pH is under 5.5, Blue- 
berries may be planted. If over 5.0, spade in aluminum sulphate as 
follows to each 100 sq. ft. Aluminum sulphate listed on page 20. 
If present pH To change to pH of 4.5 use: 
on your soil is on sandy soils On loam soils 
5.0 2.4 Ibs. 2 Moxy 
5.5 4.8 lbs. 8.3 Ibs. 
6.0 GX Mex. 21.0 lbs. 
6.5 9.0 Ibs. 27.6 lbs. 
7.0 11.4 Ibs. 34.8 Ibs. 
Location 
Blueberries grow much better and on drier sites when mulched 
than when cultivated. Sawdust of any kind and age is ideal 
mulching material, but peat and other materials except legumes, 
will do. Twice as much nitrogen is necessary during the first few 
years of a sawdust mulch. 
Fertilization 
Sulphate of ammonia is the best material for fertilizing Blueber- 
ries. Beginning with the second spring after planting, apply it at 
the rate of 2 ounces per plant, doubling this if a sawdust mulch is 
used. Scatter the fertilizer over the surface of the ground from one- 
half to three feet from the center of the bush. Increase the appli- 
cation two ounces each year until mature plants five or six years 
old are receiving three-quarters of a pound per year. 
Pruning 
Pruning is necessary after the third year to prevent overbearing 
and to maintain berry size. Remove low spreading branches near 
the ground, at least one old cane each year, and remove the weaker 
new canes, leaving two or three of the stronger to gradually renew 
the bushes. 
A few bushes near buildings may need a cheesecloth cover to 
prevent birds from taking the berries, 
[33] 
