Location and plan of the vegetable garden 
A level, well drained piece of ground, convenient to the house 
should be selected for the garden. It should be located where 
it can be irrigated if necessary and away from hedges, large 
trees or the shade of buildings. On the farm it should be well- 
fenced to protect it from rabbits, chickens and other animals. 
After selection of a location, and determining the size of the 
garden, a list of vegetables should be made. In selecting va- 
rieties to plant, primary consideration should be given to the 
likes of the family, also to the size of the plot available. The 
use of a large number of vegetables gives variety to the diet. 
In order to obtain the maximum yield of vegetables at a 
minimum expenditure of time and money, a map or plan of 
the garden should be made, showing the various vegetables to 
be grown, and their position in the garden, indicating length 
of rows and the space between rows. In the case of a small, 
backyard garden, entirely worked by hand, the rows should 
be placed as close together as possible, i.e., the smaller figure 
in column 5 of our chart on page 4, so that large quantities of 
vegetables may be produced on a limited space. In large farm 
gardens cultivated by mule-drawn tools, or other equipment 
used in the fields for this purpose, the rows should run the 
long way of the plot, and all crops should be in wide rows as 
indicated by the larger figure in the chart on page 4. 
The planting data given on page 4 of this catalog will help 
greatly in preparing a plan since seed requirements, planting 
depths, planting distances and time of maturity, which are 
necessary for the design of any garden plan, are given. 
Making a seedbed 
Small seeds such as lettuce, cabbage, collard, pepper, eggplant, 
tomato, etc., should be sown in a seedbed and the young plants 
transplanted to the field or garden. A shallow box or flat may 
be used for this purpose, or a small plot in the garden may 
be set aside to use as a seedbed for starting plants for trans- 
planting. The soil must be in perfectly fine condition, and in 
the seedbed it should be made into beds four to six inches 
high, to prevent overflow in case of heavy rains. In preparing 
seedbed soil it is desirable to mix in “'Terra-Lite” (Vermiculite) 
in order to increase germination of seed and prevent damping- 
off of seedlings. (See page 67). When the soil in the seedbed 
is in condition—thoroughly and finely pulverized, fertilized 
with 2 to 3 pounds per 100 sq. ft. of a commercial fertilizer 
such as Vigoro or Vertagreen (page 67), applied at least a 
week or ten days before sowing seed, moist, and made smooth 
and level—sow the seed in rows about six inches apart. Very 
fine seed like celery, should not be covered with soil, but may 
be pressed lightly into the soil with a light roller or with a 
wide board. Larger seeds like tomato, pepper, and cabbage 
may be covered, not over 14 to 1% inch deep. 
We recommend the use of burlap or white muslin as a cover 
over the seedbed, stretching it on a three- or four-foot wide 
tent-shaped or slanting frame built over the seedbed, with the 
sides about 10 to 12 inches from the ground to provide ample 
circulation of air under the cover. If plants are being started 
in late summer for fall planting, the seedbed cover will serve 
as a shade to protect seedlings from the hot sun, also to break 
the force of heavy rains. If plants are started in winter for a 
spring crop, this seedbed cover will protect seedlings from 
frost or freezes. It may be also advisable to use ground covers 
of burlap or old fertilizer bags. When seeds begin to germinate 
these ground covers should be removed immediately to prevent 
leggy or spindly plants. After the seed is sown, it is desirable 
to sprinkle every evening or oftener if necessary with cool 
water by means of hand sprinkling pots in order to keep the 
soil cool and moist, which tends to increase germination of 
seeds during the hot summer months. 
Success in getting transplanted plants to grow satisfactorily 
depends very much upon how the plants are grown in the seed- 
bed. For a week or ten days before transplanting, the plants 
in seedbed should be gradually hardened. This means leaving 
the cover off the plants for a week or so before transplanting, 
and water should be withheld from the plants during this 
period. When plants in seedbed are about six inches high they 
are ready to transplant into the field or garden, preferably on 
a cloudy day or toward evening. Water the plants thoroughly 
several hours before removing from seedbed, and again imme- 
diately after setting. A starter solution is helpful (see page 68). 
To grow good vegetables, a large supply of moisture and 
fertilizer is essential until the crop is ready to harvest. 
Preparation of the soil for the vegetable garden 
The soil in the garden should be carefully and well prepared. 
Bermuda grass and weeds should be removed with all roots. A 
little extra time spent in preparing the soil for planting will 
save many hours of hoeing later in the season. It is best to 
spade or plow, and apply commercial fertilizer to the soil ten 
days to two weeks before planting in order to avoid burning 
the seed or young plants. A sample of the soil should be tested, 
either by yourself with an inexpensive soil test kit (page 73) 
or by your county agent, and if found too acid or sour apply 
Hardwood Ashes or Hydrated Lime; if too alkaline or 
sweet apply Aluminum Sulphate and Manganese Sulphate 
(see page 67). 
Well-rotted animal manure may be used as a fertilizer, at the 
rate of approximately 25 to 30 lbs. of manure, and 21% to 3 
Ibs. of Acid Phosphate for each 100 square feet of garden. If 
manure is not available, leaf mold or black muck or hammock 
soil are ideal materials to work into the garden soil. If none 
of these materials is available, a two or three inch layer of 
horticultural grade peat moss (page 67) may be worked into 
the garden soil. This material is clean and easy to hande, and 
is a wonderfully effective material for breaking up hard soil, 
making it mellow, or for adding humus to sandy soil, making 
it more retentive of moisture and fertilizer materials. After this 
peat moss is worked into the soil, an inch or two inch layer of 
Pulverized Sheep Manure, along with a liberal application of 
a good garden fertilizer such as Vigoro or Vertagreen (see page 
67) should be used, applying one of these fertilizer materials 
broadcast at the rate of 4 to 6 Ibs. per 100 square feet. If this 
material is raked into the surface soil a week or ten days before 
planting, and if well watered in case of no rain in order to 
speed the incorporation and decomposition of the fertilizer 
or manure, you will have the foundation for an excellent 
vegetable garden. If the fertilizers are applied just before 
planting, they are very apt to burn the young seedlings as 
they emerge from the seed. 
After the vegetable plants are well started in the garden, 
fertilizer should be applied lightly on either side of the row of 
vegetables, but not in contact with the leaves or stems to avoid 
burning, every two or three weeks. This will make thrifty 
plants which produce an abundant supply of high quality 
vegetables for the home table. 
Note:—All materials indicated above, such as Pulverized 
Sheep Manure, Peat Moss, ‘Terra-Lite, Acid Phosphate, Vigoro, 
Vertagreen, Wood Ashes, Lime, Aluminum Sulphate, Man- 
ganese Sulphate, etc., are available at all Kilgore seed stores, 
and in our mail order department at Plant City, Florida. 
(See page 67). 
For further information on Florida Home Garden 
Mailing Department, Gainesville, 
and also for Circular 104 entitled ‘Vegetable Garden P 
ng write the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station, 
Florida, for a free copy of Bulletin 131 entitled “The Florida Home Garden” 
rcduction Guide.” 
General Offices and Mail Order | 
ost 
Department, Plant City, Florida 
Ton, 
