It is a grave mistake to bury the trunk with earth. The tree 
bark is of such a nature that it requires air, light, etc., but cov- 
ered with earth, it will split, peel off and fungus diseases and 
parasites will settle in the cracks, causing the bark to degenerate 
and impede the natural flow of sap. 
MULCHING—Is of vital importance and should never be 
neglected. The material used should be coarse manure, peat moss 
or well-aged compost applied when the tree shows signs of tired 
growth. If a tree is planted in good, well drained soil, and mak- 
ing strong vegetative growth, the tree had a chance to forage for 
itself and has taken good anchorage on its own and little or no 
benefit will result from adding mulch in a planting hole. 
The purpose of any mulch is to prevent moisture loss by ex- 
cessive evaporation and to bring about more constant soil tem- 
peratures, but will not stop weeds from growing. Straw, grass, 
hay or sawdust make the best mulch. The gradual decomposition 
of the material adds organic matter to the soil layer where many 
of the feeding roots are located. Spread around the tree for a 
space of from 2 to 3 feet and 2 to 3 inches deep. This mulch 
should be placed around the tree about December Ist and should 
be left around the tree all summer. 
The object of mulching in early winter is to keep the ground 
from thawing around the roots until late in spring, as more trees 
die from alternate freezing and thawing of roots than from all 
other causes, and the mulch will carry the roots through in per- 
fect condition, if enough is kept on. 
AFTER CULTURE—Cultivate well in the early part of the 
summer and in the month of October. The principle of cultivation 
is that the loose and pulverized soil on the surface prevents the 
evaporation of moisture and keeps weeds in check. It is import- 
ant to attend annually to surface drainage. 
Wood ashes may be applied if hard-pan soil is the problem, 
otherwise not necessary. 
Bone dust, and plaster are excellent manure and stimulant for 
trees when used on the surface. 
Cow manure is unquestionably the best fertilizer for all kinds 
of fruit trees, but they will be benefited by the liberal use of most 
any well-rotted manure, and planters should bear in mind that 
it pays both in the quality of the fruit to fertilize fruit trees. 
Compost is a mixed material consisting mainly of decayed 
organic material—manure, leaves, peat, etc—in which mineral 
soil is merely incidental. 
The only safe way to apply fertilizer to the tree after planting 
is to rake them into the ground—not in actual intimate contact 
with the roots. When so applied, the moisture in the ground dis- 
solves them and makes dilute solutions which feed the tree in- 
stead of damaging the roots. 
Fertilizing in the fall acts as a winter mulch and enriches the 
soil for the next season’s showing. 
WATERING—Avoid watering fruit trees for too much water 
harms the root system and prevents the trees coming into bearing. 
Fruit trees seldom require watering, except in very dry weather, 
then artificial watering is advised. If a drought occurs, trees bear- 
ing fruit must be watered. One good watering once a week at 
night and repeated the next morning, is far better than ten times 
as often if improperly done. More trees are killed than saved by 
injudicious watering. The right way is to draw away a little of 
the soil from the side of the tree, and allow all the water that the 
soil will absorb to soak in, then replace the dry soil. Keep the 
surface soil always loose to avoid crusts. Avoid water sprouts and 
fountains within reach of tree roots to eliminate moist soils. 
THINNING OUT THE FRUIT—Many varieties of apples, 
pears, peaches, plums, nectarines, and apricots are naturally so 
productive that they set more fruit than the tree can properly 
mature. When this occurs, it is highly important to pick off the 
fruit. As soon as the fruit is fairly set, as a general rule, pick off 
[41] 
