and Apricot trees all bear fruit only on the new wood made the 
previous year, this pruning must be followed very closely, if 
fruit is desired. After leaders have attained 15 inches, tie back 
like backbone of a fish so as to allow the sunshine and light to 
reach the eyes as the bearing eyes develop on the new wood dur- 
ing Septe nber and October, when exposed to the sun. 
Pruning Fan Shaped Espalier Trees—A pple, Pear, Plum— 
Cut all shoots developing along the leaders which form the 
framework for the Espalier tree, back to 8 inches, once a month 
during July, August and September. Don’t prune off any shoots 
shorter than 8 inches. , 
The trees may be allowed to grow any size desired by trim- 
ming the ends of the leaders during .he summer months. 
In addition, any side shoots that protrude outward, should be 
cut back to 4 inches as they will never bear fruit. 
Pruning Fan Shaped Espalier Trees — Peach, Nectarine, 
A pricot— 
Follow instructions for “Pruning All Espalier Peach, Nectar- 
ine and Apricot Trees.” In addition, any side shoots that develop 
outward, cut the shoots back to six inches. 
PLANTING AND CARE 
OF SMALL BERRIES 
GRAPE VINES (STANDARD) 
The Grape, while it loves moisture, must have well-drained 
land, and there should be free exposure to sun and air. Annual 
and careful pruning in early spring when fully dormant is es- 
sential to the production of good grapes, and if the land is poor, 
manuring must not be forgotten. 
Grapes, like peach trees, grow their fruit only on one year 
old canes. It is futile to plant grape vines older than one or two 
years old. These also must be pruned back severely like the 
peaches. The grapes, like the peach, will never bear fruit the first 
year after planting, regardless how old a vine you may plant. 
Most of the old wood must be eliminated to get live prolonged 
growth. Cut tops back to 6 inches above the ground. Plant the 
“sraft” below the surface or plant the vine just above the second 
bud. Plant Grape Vines 8 x 10 feet apart each way. 
BLUEBERRIES 
Blueberries require an acid soil containing an abundance of 
peat moss or rotted leaf mold or other partially rotted vegetable 
matter and sand. They need moist loose soil, free from rock. If 
too heavy with clay, sand will improve it. They are self-support- 
ing shrubs. For fall planting, be sure to bring the earth well 
up around the plant. This will protect the root system and pre- 
vent it from heaving during the winter. 
Blueberry roots are distributed just under the surface of the 
soil. For this reason, cultivation should be very shallow, not 
over two inches deep, so as to leave roots undisturbed. Keep 
witch grass and other weeds away from plants as it harbors 
white grubs that feed on the berry roots, and weeds will absorb 
the moisture needed by your plants. Don’t use lime on soil in- 
tended for blueberries, for lime will sweeten the soil and make it 
unfit for this purpose. Avoid barnyard manure on your plants 
because it causes fungus disease. 
They require no pruning for the first few years after planting. 
But, when plants are half grown or get dense and overbear, thus 
producing an inferior size of fruit, then trim out the weak 
branches. As a fertilizer, a mulch of oak leaves or peat moss 
is excellent. Plant 4 x 4 feet apart each way. 
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