Two ‘feet is sufficient depth for any size pool where the 
lilies or other aquatics are planted in soil containers. For small 
pools, where it is practicable to cover the bottom of the pool 
with soil instead of using soil containers, a depth of from 12 
to 18 inches is sufficient. (A pool 2 by 3 feet is considered 
a small pool.) 
Construction 
To build concrete pools with straight sides it is necessary 
to construct a form. The walls of a straight sided pool should 
be at least 6 inches at the top widening to 8 inches at the 
bottom. The bottom of the pool need be only 6 inches thick. 
The sides and bottom should be reinforced with iron rods or 
fairly heavy hog wire netting. For best results the concrete 
mixture for the bottom and sides should be poured on the 
same day. Although it is not impossible to construct pools 
which require forms without technical knowledge, it is advis- 
able to let a mason contractor construct pools of this type. 
A pool with sloping sides does not require forms, and it 
can be easily built without any help from a professional. 
First, lay out a garden hose on the ground where you expect 
to build your pool. Shape and form this hose to the size and 
shape of the expected pool. This makes it easier for you to 
visualize the size and shape of the pool after it is completed. 
Next, excavate the soil 6 inches deeper and 6 inches wider 
than the actual size of the pool. The extra 6 inches is to allow 
for the concrete. Do not make the sides too straight otherwise 
you will have difficulty retaining the concrete mixture when 
you pour it. It is important to dig carefully so that there will 
be no loose dirt in the excavation when you are finished dig- 
ging. Any loose soil on the bottom of the excavation will have 
to be leveled out and tamped down. The sides and bottom 
should be smooth for best results in laying the concrete. When 
excavating, consider the manner in which the concrete side 
walls flare out on the top (see figure 1), so that soil or rocks 
may be placed on top of the concrete walls to hide from view. 
Do not attempt to incorporate any rocks or large stones, which 
may be jutting out of the ground, into the concrete of the sides 
or bottom; if this is done it will invariably cause leaks. If you 
wish to have rocks in your pool, for soil pockets or ornamental 
effect, lay them after you have poured the concrete. 
It is best to have all of your reinforcing material ready 
before you start. Lay it out and shape it, and know just where 
you are going to put it before you mix the concrete. It is also 
best before mixing the concrete to plan and arrange things so 
that you may finish the whole operation in one day with one 
continuous pouring. The reason for this is that the pool will 
then be constructed as one unit without any joints. 
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For a good mixture of concrete, we recommend 1 part of 
Portland cement, 2 parts of sharp sand, and 3 parts of half 
inch crushed stones. Mix well with water into a rather stiff 
mixture. Apply about 3 inches of this mixture over the bottom 
and sides of the pool. After this, lay your reinforcing material 
on top of the concrete; be sure that it lays flat on the concrete. 
It is advisable to bend heavy nails and drive them into the 
concrete to hold the reinforcing in place. Next, pour another 
3 inches of concrete on top of this and level it out well. Do 
not attempt to smooth it; leave it rough. Allow this concrete 
to set for about one or two hours. Then, mix 2 parts of sifted 
sand and 1 part of cement with water; apply this mixture 
about 14 to 1/4, inch thick over the concrete and trowel it out 
to a smooth finish. Before applying this finish, insert a few 
spikes 3 inches into the concrete to serve as anchors for the 
rocks of intended soil pockets. (See figure 1.) 
Drain of the Pool 
The drains in straight-sided pools may be located at one end 
or in the corner. In pools with sloping sides the drain may be 
in any convenient place at the bottom. In either type pool 
always slope the bottom towards the drain. If the drain pipe 
leading away from the pool should be longer than a few 
yards it is advisable to lead the 11/4 inch metal pipe into a 
3 or 4 inch tile pipe which shall prevent the pipe from clog- 
ging when draining the pool. However, drainage systems may 
be easily dispensed with as you seldom drain your pool more 
than once a year. It is simple to drain a pool which does not 
have a built-in drainage system. To do this, fill a garden hose 
with water; plug both ends tightly with a cork, or a nozzle, 
or any other suitable plug; drop one end into the pool; place 
the other end at some point lower than the bottom of the 
pool and remove the plugs. This will start a syphon which 
will drain the pool. 
Finishing the Pool 
Bog and Shallow water plants are very desirable for natural 
and artistic effects. These plants should not be planted in 
water as deep as the lilies are planted in; therefore pockets 
should be built near the surface of the water to accommodate 
them. (See figure 1, below.) These pockets may be made out 
of rocks to hold soil for the bog plants or, as we show in 
figure 1, page 8, may be made so that a flower pot with soil 
may be set into them. To build these pockets use flat rocks. 
For the bottom rock use a rather wedge shaped one. Use the 
previously mentioned spikes which had been placed in the 
pool when it was being built as anchors for these rocks. Use 
mortar to bind and hold the rocks and to cover the spikes with. 
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[3] Joseph Lingg Aquatic Gardens Inc. * Ardsley, New York 
