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Daffodils and Narcissi 
The beauty of Daffodils and Narcissi is unquestioned and these flowers now form a leading feature in 
almost every Spring garden. Every Gardener should realize the enormous amount of intense pleasure 
that can so easily be obtained from the cultivation of a batch of Daffodils or Narcissi. 
Indication and origin of the name Daffodil and Narcissus. The use of the terms Narcissus and 
Daffodils is being confused a great many times. There is a tendency to apply ‘‘Daffodil” to varieties 
of which the trumpet or cup is as large or larger than the perianth, while the name Narcissus indicates 
varieties having small cups. The term Narcissus however, is correct for all different types of Daffodils and 
Narcissi. The name Daffodil is from an interesting origin. In the fifteenth century, the words affadile and 
affodylle applied for asphodel, a Narcissus with a large cup. In 1538 Turner writes about affadyll and 
daffadilly. Ten years later he says in his ‘‘Names of Herbes”’ that an English whyte affodil is a Duche 
Daffodil. He uses the forms affodil and daffodil in 1551. The name Daffodil was then used by Gerarde, 
when he used this term in his Herbal. 
Other forms of Daffodil have been: aphrodillus, affodillus, daffodilly, daffadyl, affodyll, daffodyll, 
pseudo-narcissus and bastarde-narcissus. 
The origin of the term Narcissus has not been connected with so much variance. It is accepted that the 
name has been deduced from the Greek verb Narkaoo (Lat. obtorpesco), which means to narcotize, as 
the flower was considered to do so. There is also a Greek mythe that accounts for the name, in which 
Narkissos is the chief character. 
Naturalizing Daffodils and Narcissi in Grass etc. All Daffodils and Narcissi are suitable for 
naturalizing but in very heavy soils, preference should be given to stronger growing sorts e.1. Trumpet 
varieties and many Large Cupped sorts. They are all admirably adaptable for grassy slopes and banks, 
where they should be freely planted. A splendid effect is obtained when Trumpet and other varieties 
are grouped separately, scattered on the ground and planted where they fall. 
Soil and its Treatment. Daffodils and Narcissi will thrive in any well cultivated and drained garden 
soil. In preparing the ground for planting, dig deeply and if well rotted stable or cow manure is avail- 
able this may advantageously be dug in 18 to 20 inches deep so as not to come into immediate contact 
with the bulbs. Never use fresh manure of any kind at planting time. On poor and dry sandy soils we 
recommend a dressing of sulphate of potash at a rate of about 1 oz. per square yard to be sprinkled 
over the surface of the ground after planting. 
Growing Daffodils in the greenhouse or indoors. All types of Daffodils and Narcissi are suitable 
for this purpose. Pot up the bulbs on arrival and if ordinary pots are used take a good loamy soil, adding 
sufficient sand and peat to keep the mixture open. A light dusting of bone meal is also useful. Pot 
firmly in well crocked pots. For bowls without drainage holes use a good fibre. Plunge the pots and/or 
bowls in the coolest place of your garden and in the absence of garden space the pots may be placed in 
a cool cellar (35—40° F.) where watering from time to time is necessary. When the shoots are about 
4 inches long and the flower buds well out of the neck of the bulbs, the pots may be removed into a 
warm room. Heat should be gradually increased from 50° to max. 60° F. 
It is advisable to remove the foliage of the sideshoots, if these do not show a flower bud. Just before 
the buds are open, water can be spread lightly, when they are in bloom less water should be applied. 
Revision of the Classification of Daffodils. In this catalogue we have adopted the revised system 
for the new R.H.S. classification of Daffodils and Narcissi formally approved by the General Bulb 
Growers Society of Haarlem (Holland) and the Daffodil Societies of America, Canada, Australia, 
Tasmania and New Zealand. 
The principal changes on comparing the old system with the new one are as follows: 
The former Leedsi, Incomparabilis and Barrii Divisions are transferred into two Divisions: viz. Division 
II Large-Cupped Narcissi with its sub-divisions a, b. c, d and Division III Small-Cupped Narcissi with 
its sub-divisions a, b, c and d. 
The whole Genus is now classified in eleven Divisions as follows: 
Ia. Yellow Trumpets — Ib. Bicolor Trumpets — Ic. White Trumpets — Ila. Large-Cupped, yellow 
perianth, coloured cup or corona — IIb. Large-Cupped, white perianth, coloured cup or corona — IIc. 
Large-Cupped, white perianth, white cup or corona — IId. Large-Cupped, not falling in a, b, or c. — 
IIIa. Small-Cupped, yellow perianth, coloured cup or corona — IIIb. Small-Cupped, white perianth, 
coloured cup or corona — IIIc. Small-Cupped, white perianth, white cup or corona — IIId. Small- 
Cupped, not falling in a, b, or c — IV. Double varieties — V. Triandrus Narcissi — VI. Cyclamineus 
Narcissi — VII. Jonquilla Narcissi — VIII. Tazetta Hybrids (Poetaz etc.) — IX. Poeticus Narcissi — 
X. Species and Wild forms and Hybrids — XI. Miscellaneous Narcissi not falling into any of the fore- 
going Divisions. 
