28 VENTURA EPIPHYLLUM GARDENS 
one-half cup bone meal to five gallons of 
mixture. 
Since leafmould varies, these instructions 
must be adjusted according to materials 
on hand. Soil must be porous at all times. 
These plants do not like a wet soggy soil 
that packs. 
WATERING. The amount of water will 
depend on the weather conditions. Twice 
a week will suffice except when the weath- 
er is very hot and dry, then it will be ne- 
cessary to water once a day. A light over- 
head spray will not injure them even when 
in bud, unless excessive force is used. Keep 
dust washed off the plants. This will help 
to keep them healthy. After flowering, it 
is best to allow plants to rest for one 
month. During this period reduce the 
water, but at no time should the plants be 
allowed to become completely dry. After 
this rest period plants needing repotting 
should be taken care of. When repotting 
into larger container it will not be neces- 
sary to remove all the soil from the roots; 
if necessary cut off the straggly roots. Do 
not water newly potted plants for three or 
four days, then keep gently moist, in case 
plants have been bruised in handling. 
Plants must be well established before ad- 
ditional fertilizer is given. 
FERTILIZING. Any good complete 
commercial fertilizer made for general use 
will do. The amount will vary according 
to the brand—it is best given in liquid 
form. Give one or two applications in the 
early Fall, a month apart, and discontinue 
all fertilizer during the Winter months 
until danger of frost is over. Fertilizing 
may be resumed in the latter part of Feb- 
ruary or early March, according to location, 
and a second application when the buds 
are set. This may be judged when the buds 
are two inches long in the larger flowering 
types, and one inch in the small flowering 
varieties. Water plants well before apply- 
ing fertilizer. Do not allow fertilizer to re- 
main on foliage, as this may cause burn. 
DROPPING OF BUDS. Excessive fer- 
tilizing, over watering and insufficient light 
all cause buds to drop. Large flowers take 
more vitality from the plant than small 
ones, consequently the latter bear more 
flowers. 
MAKING CUTTINGS. In California, 
cuttings can be made at any time of the 
year if plants are in good condition. How- 
ever, they will not root as quickly during 
the cold months without extra protection 
and care. A good time to make cuttings is 
after plants have flowered and have filled 
out. The second year’s growth is best, since 
it is mature. Cuttings must be allowed to 
callus in a cool, dry place for two weeks, 
then plant in regular soil mixture. Do not 
be alarmed if cuttings appear to shrivel. 
They will root readily when planted. Ex- 
tra succulent cuttings should be given 
more time to callus. Cuttings should not 
be planted deeper than 1% inches. Always 
stake up cuttings until they take root— 
this applies to plants as well. Plants may 
be allowed to grow in a natural way or 
trained upright by staking. Taller plants 
can be trellised. 
Young plants should not be allowed to 
flower the first year. This will allow a 
good root system to develop, assuring the 
gardener of healthy plants. 
WHERE THERE IS A WILL THERE IS A WAY! 
From Mrs. R. D. Emmons, of Roseburg, 
Oregon, we have received the following 
valuable information. Unable to get leaf 
mould, due to gas rationing, she found a 
way to grow Epiphyllums in spite of heavy 
soil. She worked out her formula, which 
she was kind enough to pass on to others 
having similar trouble. As a potting mix- 
ture, she uses: 
5 parts garden loam. 
3 parts ground peat moss. 
3 parts well-rotted manure. 
3 parts fine gravel. 
1 part sand. 
Judging from her interesting and infor- 
mative letter, she has been highly success- 
ful. 
So many are under the impression that 
peat moss should not be used, yet from our 
experience we have found that these plants 
naturally enjoy peat moss in the soil mix- 
ture. The difficulty lies in not allowing 
for good drainage. Where dry hot tem- 
peratures are experienced the plants will 
benefit by its use in holding the moisture. 
At this time it is well to mention that 
in sections where excessive dry heat is 
experienced we suggest the use of burlap 
over the top and sides where they get the 
most sun. The burlap allows extra shade 
and does not shut out the air as would 
muslin. This may be wet several times a 
day and lightly spraying the plants as well 
will help to keep them from becoming de- 
hydrated. Remove as soon as weather 
will permit. 
