VENTURA EPIPHYLLUM GARDENS 29 
HERE 1S THE ADVICE YOU’VE ASKED FOR ON 
CONTROL OF PESTS AND DISEASE 
This material has been prepared in an- 
swer to many requests. We trust it will 
be helpful. 
One of the wisest maxims handed down 
to us from ages of experience is “An ounce 
of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” 
With Epiphyllums as with all other 
forms of life, the surest deterrent to at- 
tacking pests is the health of your plant. 
In the case of these plants, start with a 
good specimen, and see that the soil in 
which it is planted is clean, i.e., free from 
ants, cut-worms, mealy-bugs, nematodes 
and any other pests prevalent in your 
neighborhood. Soil can be sterilized by 
heat in the over 120 degrees for one hour; 
and you can be reasonably sure it is clean 
by adding tobacco powder to it, about 1 
tablespoonful to 1 quart of earth. In addi- 
tion to CLEAN SOIL you must have FREE 
CIRCULATION OF AIR, enough FIL- 
TERED LIGHT. Regulate watering accord- 
ing to your own conditions. At no time 
allow the soil to become completely dry, as 
this may cause damage to the young roots. 
This is important. Be sure of good drainage 
and ample nourishment. 
ANTS are the basis of a large percentage 
of plant trouble. They are always trying 
to provide themselves with honey excreted 
by MEALY-BUGS, APHIS and SOFT 
SCALES, and as they are notably indus- 
trious the safest course is to be fore- 
armed. Chlordane provides an effective 
control. In powder form it can be sprinkled 
under benches, on the floors, sides and 
supports of plant containers; or an emul- 
sion concentrate may be used in a hand 
spray for all these surfaces and for di- 
recting a stream into nests wherever they 
can be discovered. CAUTION: CHLOR- 
DANE IS POISONOUS and should be used 
with care to avoid inhalation of whatever 
form used. 
If, in spite of all your care, you find 
traces of pests on your plants, you will 
have to resort to sprays. The simplest 
spray, very effective and not harmful, con- 
sists of lukewarm soft water in which one 
teaspoon of Ivory Soap Flakes has been 
dissolved. This is useful in light attacks 
of aphids and thrip, as it leaves a slight 
invisible coating on the plant which pre- 
vents renewed attacks for about two 
weeks. 
FOR MEALY-BUG and SOFT SCALE 
you will need an oil spray. CAUTION IN 
USE OF OIL SPRAYS: Epiphyllums are 
more absorbent than many plants, and will 
take up both poison and oil into the inner 
part of the plants with great rapidity. 
For this reason, be sure to read the labels 
on your oil emulsion compounds, and 
whenever you find 33 to 50% of oil, take 
care in such cases to dilute the given for- 
mula so that you have only HALF- 
STRENGTH for your spray. It is much 
better to use a weak spray often than to 
trust to one strong spraying which may 
burn your plant or poison it. For these 
two pests (also for RED SPIDER) you can 
use mild oil spray pyrethrum or Rotenone 
with a nicotine solution like Black Leaf 40 
or in combintaion. NEVER USE A SUL- 
FUR COMPOUND WITH ANY OIL 
SPRAY. TOBACCO POWDER as a mulch 
or mixed with the planting soil acts as a 
deterrent to nematode and mealy-bug and 
at the same time is a stimulant to plant 
growth. Tobacco dust or powder may be 
bought at most supply stores. 
A bad infestation of root mealy-bug will 
make itself known by white streaks on the 
soil surface, indicating that the bugs have 
gathered in the crown of the plant, which 
surface spraying does not reach. In such 
a case make a solution of Black Leaf 40 
in a pail big enough to submerge your 
plant container and let it stand for an hour, 
then remove and let it drain naturally. 
FUNGUS SPOTS which defy the simple 
soap and water spray should be treated 
with a copper sulphate preparation. Use 
half the recommended strength. This will 
control sucking insects such as mealy-bug, 
aphids, mites and red spider in early 
stages and also fungus moulds. In spray- 
ing be sure to cover not only all exposed 
parts of your plant, but also the soil sur- 
face, to kill any spores which it may be 
carrying. It is well to water plants and 
soil well before applying insecticides to 
lessen the danger of toxicity. 
The TIME to begin spraying is impor- 
tant: In EARLY SPRING everything be- 
gins to move, and at the time life surges 
into your plants the insects will start up. 
You can supply a protective spray at that 
time, and then after that use your judg- 
ment and be guided by necessity. Again 
in AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, when the 
young scales are moving about, they should 
