hydrogen ions in a saturated solution. This is expressed in pH units. pH7 is neutral. 
Below that the acidity increases; above it the alkalinity increases. For the mathematical, 
I will explain that the numeral is the negative logarithm denoting the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in gram atoms per liter. 
In regions having heavy rainfall, excess alkali is usually dissolved and carried away 
by the runoff. Semi-arid regions usually have alkaline soils. Calif. soils usually have too 
much unless cover crops or applications of humus, which are acid, have lowered the pH. 
I am told that Texas soils are sometimes too alkaline. The remedy is obvious. Apply 
humus, ground phosphate rock, or small, even applications of sulphur. Improve the 
drainage. 
Chlorosis of plants, indicated by lighter green streaks of foliage, may not be due 
to a virus disease, in all cases. It may indicate lack of all required nutrients, some of 
which can not go into solution in an alkaline medium. Among such nutrients are 
Nitrogen and Iron which are soluble only in acids. 
Potting Directions. Use clean pots of the right size, neither too large nor too small. A 
24%” Amaryllis, for example, needs a 6” pot. A 1%” Eucharis needs a 5” pot. Small 
bulbs like Ranunculus or Achimines may have 3 to 5 in a 5” or 6” pot. Cover the hole 
at bottom with a piece of broken pot, concave side down. Above this place small pieces 
of broken pot and gravel. This helps to drain away excess water. Over this drainage 
material we usually place a handful of sphagnum moss to prevent the soil from sifting 
into and clogging the drainage material. 
The drainage must be perfect and it is essential that the soil above this drainage be 
of a friable texture that permits water to pass thru freely. Only very sandy soil will 
answer this purpose and the sand should be rather sharp and coarse, or part of it at least. 
Unless drainage is good, failure results with most plants. 
Potting soils must contain plant nutrients, but not in excess, and humus. One can 
add a tablespoonful of bone meal and old rotted dairy manure for fertility and leaf 
mould, peat and/or sphagnum for humus. Nearly all potting soils should be at least 
slightly acid. 
Basketing. Vining or pendant plants like Achimenes, Aeschynanthes and several of 
the other Gesneriaceae, Begonia Lloydii, Ceropegias, etc. look best and do best in our 
wire baskets, altho they can be grown in pots, suspended by the “Snap-on” pot hangers. 
Wire baskets allow perfect drainage and we prefer them also for some orchids like Laelias. 
We offer the best wire baskets made. Painted wire baskets soon rust out. Ours are 
galvanized, polished, not soldered but welded. 
Place a thick layer of wet sphagnum on bottom and sides of basket. It should 
be well compressed and at least 1” or 2” thick. For the center one can use a mixture of 
peat, leaf mould and sand—or any soil formula favorable to the plant. For certain 
Orchids, Episcias and sometimes other plants, we use only sphagnum thruout. 
Fertilizers. Many advise the addition of fertilizer to potting soils. We never use any 
except the rotted dairy manure and leaf mould and sometimes a tablespoon of bone meal. 
If new roots come into contact with much fertilizer they are burned. Commercial fertilizer 
is especially a hazard. A potted dormant bulb, seed or plant must be babied to the extent 
of giving only a light diet. A rich, full meal will often cause failure. We prefer to get 
them well started and growing and of some size before adding more fertilizer, if any. 
The chief food of plants is carbon dioxide taken from the air thru the foliage. Water, 
nitrogen and minerals come from the soil. 
When bulbs are well rooted, liquid fertilizer can be used once a month. Weak liquid 
manure is excellent but not quite as well balanced as Spoonit. 
For the starting temperatures and further culture of the plants please read the culture 
advice given with the listings. 
Sources of Further Information. Please note our Garden Reference Books. Join local 
garden clubs. Subscribe for as many garden magazines as you can. We especially recom- 
mend Popular Gardening, Dept. H., 90 State St., Albany, N.Y., and Flower Grower, Dept. 
H., 99 'N. Broadway, Albany, N.Y. We are charter subscribers of both. I suggest you buy 
copies of each at your newsstand. You will probably then subscribe for both of them. 
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