Even in my later first French edition, 1798, nearly all American epiphytic orchids were 
placed in one genus, Epidendrums, and under the genus Amaryllis he included certain 
Crinums, Zephyranthes, Sprekelias, Brunsvigias, Nerines, etc. Botany is a progressive 
science and later explorations and discoveries have made possible many improvements in 
plant classification and have required changes in nomenclature. Horticulturists are often 
loath to accept the new classifications and names. But we must do so even if inconvenient 
at first. It is not logical to continue an error. 
In our catalogs, we accept changes in classification and names as made by recent 
writers in Herbertia. These have been approved by “Gentes Herbarum,” the publication 
of the Bailey Hortorium of Cornell University. To help you avoid ordering a bulb you 
already have we give both old and new names, thus: Brunsvigia rosea (Amaryllis bella- 
donna); Amaryllis advena (Hippeastrum advenum). 
Agapanthus, Blue Lily of the Nile. Best time to plant is early spring. They flower 
here in June to Aug. In the north they must be grown in large pots or tubs and 
wintered in a frost free room. Plant in full sun exposure in any good garden soil. 
Agapanthus longispathus. Similar to well known A. orientalis, but smaller and later 
to flower. Profuse bloomer. Advised for pot growing. 50c, 3 for $1.25. 
A. orientalis. Dark Blue. More robust than longispathus. Superior clone. $1.00. 
A. orientalis. Sky Blue. 75c. 
A. orientalis alba. Pure white. $2.00. 
A. von Weillighi hybrids. Selected Clone. A giant type, very large, round umbel of 
blue flowers on. a tall stem. $2.50. 
Amarcrinum Howardii (Crinodonna Howardi). A cross between Brunsvigia rosea 
(Amaryllis belladonna) and Crinum moorei. Flowers are a pure pink and very attractive. 
Fall bloomer, order early or it may skip blooming first year. Hardy in south. For large 
pots in north. A very popular and desirable bulb. Culture similar to its parents. $2.00 and 
$3.00 ea. 
Amaryllis Linn, This genus as constructed by Linneaus was untenable because he 
included plants now known to belong to other genera. The invalid name Hippeastrum 
was used by both Herbert and Baker, but now we are scientifically correct when we use 
the name that has always been most popular. 
Amaryllis are the easiest, the most showy and popular of all bulbs for growing in 
pots. Equally desirable for southern gardens where they are hardy along the east coast 
to N. Car. and on the west to Vancouver. In the middle section they may be grown as far 
_ north as Ark. and Okla., but note special directions for colder sections. 
How to Grow Amaryllis. In the garden, in the deep south where temperatures go 
only a few degrees under freezing, Amaryllis bulbs need to be covered only about an inch 
or two. Farther north they may be planted deeper in protected places and mulched with 
straw, leaves and/or brush. In Okla., a customer reports a depth of 4” with mulch is safe. 
Try our “Hardy Hybrids.” Amaryllis must not be planted close to trees, shrubs or large 
vigorous plants, whose roots compete and take the moisture. Irrigate frequently. Rain is 
seldom enough. The most commen error is lack of sufficient moisture. They are endemic 
to the tropics and in many cases, where there is almost daily rain. We have never had an 
employee whom we could trust to water Amaryllis enough. The soil should contain a 
good percentage of humus. Add well rotted manure and if not slightly acid, add some 
peat but do not acidify the soil with sulphur or aluminum sulphate. We do not advise 
planting imported, greenhouse grown bulbs in the outside garden. 
In Pots. A 244” bulb requires a 6” pot. Give a 3” to 34%” bulb a 7” pot. Remove 
dead roots but every vestige of living root should be left on. The best soil mixture is 
rich sandy loam 50%. The balance may be equal parts of sharp sand, peat, rotted leaf 
mould and rotted or dry, powdered dairy manure. Tablespoonful of bone meal to each 
pot.is good. Place bulbs so that neck and about 4 of bulb is above soil surface. Water 
well to settle the soil. Usually this first watering is enough until growth starts but the 
soil should not dry out completely. Add only a little if necessary. Over watering when 
dormant may rot the roots. At this time a temperature of 60° is favorable to root 
development. When growth starts gradually increase amount of water. When in full 
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