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HOW TO GROW ROSES 
Other Planting Information on Pages 7 and 31 
THE TWO MOST IMPORTANT factors in 
rose growing are buying top grade plants, 
and proper planting. 
Roses prefer an open area, free of tree 
and shrub roots, where they get half a day 
or more of sun, preferably morning sun. 
Keep roots moist and covered when 
planting. 
Most any well drained soil, not too 
acid or alkaline can be made into good 
rose soil. Prepare the holes for planting 
well in advance. Dig holes 2 feet deep 
and 18 inches across. Add to surface soil 
10% peat, 10% rotted manure and 5% 
rotted compost. Mix well. When planting 
re-dig holes, build a cone-shaped mound 
in the center, spread roots over cone; bud 
union (bulge on understock where top is 
budded on the stock) slightly above level 
of the ground. Fill in, firming with feet; 
water horoughly. 
Roses are heavy feeders. Fertilize from 
mid-March to mid-September, using 1/2 
cup of well-balanced fertilizer per plant. 
Dig a trench around plant, fill with water. 
When water settles place fertilizer in 
trench, fill with water again and cover 
after water has settled. After first appli- 
cation of commercial fertilizer a mulch 
of well-rotted manure may be applied. 
Roses require plenty of water. Keep 
beds moist at all times. Frequency de- 
pends on soil, from once or twice a week 
in sandy soil, to once in two weeks in 
heavy soil. Allow water to run slowly and 
soak deeply. 
A generous supply of water will produce 
sturdy and more vigorous plants and will 
increase the quantity and quality of 
blooms. 
Weeding is a garden job that never 
ends, but it can be greatly simplified by 
the use of a mulch. Peat moss, buckwheat 
hulls, compost, well-rotted manure or 
some appropriate shredded material, helps 
to keep down weeds and to keep the soil 
in the rose bed damp and cool. Where no 
mulch has been used, light cultivation of 
the surface soil will probably be necessary 
to remove weeds and prevent caking. 
Avoid deep cultivation which will damage 
small roots growing near the surface. 
Spraying or dusting to control fungus 
diseases and insects is another important 
summer chore. Sprays or dusts should be 
applied at ten-day intervals during the 
early morning or late afternoon. During 
wet spells, the frequency should be in- 
creased as blackspot and mildew increase 
rapidly in these periods. Remember that 
the spray or dust must cover the underside 
of the leaves as well as the top to gain 
the maximum effect. Summer chores in 
the rose garden are neither difficult nor 
time-consuming, but they require regular 
attention. 
January is the best month for pruning 
bush roses in California. As much as pos- 
sible cut out the old wood and shorten 
back the new growth about '% of last 
year’s growth. Cut out twiggy growth and 
cross branches. When cutting blooms leave 
3 or 4 leaves with the top one pointing 
in the direction you wish the growth to go. 
PRUNING CLIMBING ROSES. For the 
first two years after planting do not prune 
climbing roses. From third year on cut 
back all new growth 13 right after the 
flowering period. Climbers which bloom 
once a year bloom on wood produced the 
previous year. Prune these right after 
flowering to allow a good growth for next 
year’s flowers. 
ie 
if 
7 Soil Level 
ipread rools over amound 
(Li /ok earth 47 
Apply : 
fertilizer in ring ground plant, 
waterond refill ring. 
Prune obove 
> bud, with bud 4) 
Pruning climbing roses 
10 STEPS TO A BEAUTIFUL LAWN 
Much has been written on the 
subject of planting a lawn, but 
the process should not be diffi- 
cult if one follows a few general 
rules. 
The soil should be fairly rich 
and friable. Often in our area it 
Roll to Pack 
1 LB. OF SEED 
if 
Coreful light 
_ watering In other cases the addition of 
gypsum at rate of 3-4 bags per 
1000 square feet, humus builder 
come or peat moss will do the neces- 
sary job. In any event the pro- 
cedure after the ground is pre- 
pared is the same. We suggest 
10 FT. 
is necessary to add topsoil. This 
is available and of a good quality. 
1. Turn soil and water. After weeds have sprouted turn soil again 
and water. This cycle should be repeated until most of the 
weeds are gone. This generally requires about a month. 
2. Rake and level. 
3. Roll and level. 
4. Fertilize, using about four pounds commercial fertilizer per 
100 square feet. Not manure. 1 
5. Scratch surface lightly and sow seeds. Roll again thoroughly. 
PE Se 
these 10 steps to a beautiful 
lawn. 
Apply light mulch of finely shredded Canadian Peat at the 
rate of 600 to 1,000 square feet per bale. Roll lightly. 
Water with fine spray. Don’t allow water to wash the peat or 
seed. 
Keep moist at all times. Water with fine spray. 
Some grass will appear in from 5 to 7 days. Others may take 
up to 3 weeks. 
Cutting should not be done until the grass is from 2 to 3 
inches high. 
We Offer the Finest LAWN SEED Our salesmen are fully qualified to suggest the type and 
mixture for your particular problem. See us when you plant a new lawn or wish to renovate an old one. Lawn rollers 
and mowers, seeders and fertilizer spreaders available. 
Soil builders, such as peat moss, leaf mold and cow manure, are also items that every garden needs. We handle only the best in this line. 
Insecticides and Fertilizers are necessary items of good plant growth and appearance. See our complete selection at the nursery. 
Dal, 
