a soil mixtufe of one-half leafmold and one-half 
sandy loam. A small amount of wellrotted 
manure thoroughly mixed with the above is 
good, Begonias like an acid soil so guard 
against alkalinity. A small amount of peat 
moss will help. 
Fill the pot or box to a depth of three or four 
inches from the top. Fertilize at this point with 
a tablespoontul of fishmeal or cottonseed meal 
—mix with the soil to a depth of one or two 
inches — cover with a small amount of leaf- 
mold — then plant tuber so that the top or 
crown of the tuber is level with the soil and 
about an inch down from the rim of the pot 
or box. It is preferable to have the tuber higher 
so that the water drains away from the crown. 
The tuber should not be covered. When plant- 
ing in the ground, follow the same procedure 
as in pots. 
CARE OF PLANTS 
Mulch the surface with a little peat or leaf- 
mold — do not cultivate close to the plants— 
keep soil moist and fertilize every two months 
by digging in a tablespoonful of fishmeal 
around the outer edge of the pot — especially 
good for hanging baskets. Successful results 
are also performed by using an application of 
liquid fish fertilizer once a month. Stake plants 
if required using redwood or bamboo stakes. 
Sprinkle leaves occasionally with a fine spray 
and water well at the base of the stalk. Do not 
make the ground soggy. 
Pots set into the ground at least half way for 
the home garden is better than ground plant- 
ing. Other plant roots do not rob the begonia 
roots of valuable fertilizer. You can control 
moisture much better and in the fall when they 
are through blooming the plant can be re- 
moved, pot and all, to a place for maturing or 
drying off. Do not cut or break off the tops— 
permit them to dry up. 
CARE OF TUBERS 
When your begonias are through blooming 
in October or November permit them to mature 
or dry up. It is easily accomplished when 
begonias are planted in pots or boxes. When 
the foliage starts to turn yellow and blooming 
ceases, turn the pots on their side in the garage 
or any sheltered place until spring — do not 
remove the tuber from the soil — for a gradual 
drying off is necessary. A very important pre- 
caution is to avoid cutting or breaking off the 
top, for the strength of the season's growth 
returns to the tuber as it matures in the fall. 
In late fall or spring one may remove tuber, 
brush off old soil and dead roots. Guard 
against bruising tubers and place them in flats 
\ber through March 
