SWABEY DIARY. 407 
5th September.—I remained among the Moorish relics pleased with 
the change in the manners of the people. 
It is remarkable that this is the first time that the Hnglish have 
more than patrolled to this place. 
I wrote to Harding and Mr. Walcott. 
6th September.—Marched to Campanario into which we were cheered 
with vivas and handkerchiefs. If loyalty existed in Zalamca, here it 
was most conspicuous. 
The structure of the houses is by no means better than hitherto, but 
worse, for the body of the house is taken up by the passage or kitchen 
and there is an apartment in the corner to sleep in, without window or 
air. 
7th September.—For the first time we experienced the civility of 
Spaniards in the very rarely shown form of a bottle of wine and a 
melon being placed on the table, which seldom shows itself in that 
way ; there was likewise a dish of stewed pork which being seasoned 
with garlic and oil, I could not find politeness enough to eat. Some 
of us not being quite so delicate saved us from the dilemma of sending 
it out untouched. 
To my great disappointment we halted here to-day, forin my mind 
I had already overtaken, killed, and eaten Le pawvre Monsieur Soult. 
Sth September.—This evening a bull-fight was given in honour of 
our highnesses. There is no regular Plaza de Toros but all the 
avenues leading to the square being closed and secured the animals 
were baited there. ; 
I have no right to form an opinion from a “rustic feast”? (for they 
still preserve the title the Romans gave to their sports), but certainly 
this afforded little amusement, and gave few specimens of courage 
and address. 
The nature of the thing consisted in a savage bull being let loose in 
an enclosure, the people goading him with long sticks headed with iron 
and still more by a noise peculiar to this sport by which they irritate 
him. He fixes his eye occasionally with astonishing quickness and 
charges one of his cruel tormentors. In the height of his career, 
cloak, hat, or handkerchief turns his attention, so that when well 
played the grand art is to have a cloth, allow the bull to charge, and 
merely throw it on one side at his approach, when his butt will invari- 
ably be directed at it and the Torero or Bull-fighter escapes. It ts 
remarkable that when he gets a blow at a man he aims with the middle 
of his forehead and seems quite ignorant of the use of his horns, so 
that several English as well as Spaniards who were the ‘boldest in the 
ring were thrown down, but were invariably unhurt by the horns. 
When he gets a man down he begins to poke sideways and is then 
dangerous ; it is then that courage is conspicuous for there were some 
who ran out to rescue and literally pinned the animal by catching fast 
hold of the horns behind his head. This several Hnglish as well as 
Spaniards performed with uncommon courage. : 
I can fancy the bull-fight in a regular circus where only a certain 
number of assistants were admitted, with regular Toreros and proper 
