GARDENING Swggeortions 
GARDEN LOCATION—wMost vegetables grow best when exposed to full sunlight. A com- 
mon mistake is to plant crops too close to a hedgerow or tree. If part of the garden is shaded, 
plant leaf crops in this area rather than tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, or beans. An ideal garden 
soil is fertile, deep, well drained, and easily worked into good condition. It is very desirable to 
have a source of water close to the garden for supplemental irrigation. 
SOIL PREPARATION—Remove all refuse of previous crops as soon as sosible in the 
fall. Plowing of at least a portion of the garden in the fall will render that part available earlier ~ 
the following spring. Disc or rake the soil as early in the spring as possible and work to a well- 
pulverized, level surface. Care must be given never to work the ground when too wet or it 
will pack. 
PLANTING—Some vegetables are best grown by planting seed directly in the garden rows. 
Early in the spring, sow the seeds shallow so plants will come up quickly. Later in the summer, 
sow the seeds deeper. Always firm the soil around the seed with the flat of a hoe or with your foot. 
Other vegetables produce better crops from plants started in protected beds or boxes, or started in 
the open in milder climates. When transplanting, it is most important to pack the soil firmly 
around the roots, and to furnish plenty of water until the plants become well established. Good 
results can be had by placing the plant in the hole and washing dirt onto the roots, then allowing 
the water to settle and raking loose dry soil over the surface. 
CORRECT DEPTH FOR SETTING A GOOD METHOD OF TRANSPLANTING 
Cabbage Onion Tomato Make a good size Wash soil around Hoe loose soil over 
hole roots surface 
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FERTILIZERS —fertilizer can be spread on the ground before plowing and worked in, or it 
can be applied in bands on either side of the row. Many gardeners apply one-half before preparing 
the land and the other half in the row. It is not necessary to buy a specific analysis for each kind 
of crop. A 4-8-8 or S-10-10 will give excellent results on most garden crops. The amount used 
will vary with the crop and the fertility of the soil. Under most conditions, use from 3 to 6 pints 
per 100 square feet of space. It is very easy to use too much on small areas, so it is good practice 
to weigh or measure amounts. One pint of most commercial mixtures will weigh approximately 
one pound. 
CULTIVATION -—sStart cultivation as soon as plants 
are up to give them a chance to get ahead of the weeds. 
Cultivate as often as necessary to keep weeds from getting 
a start. Use a sharp hoe or a wheel cultivator with knife 
type blades that skim just under the surface. Do not culti- 
vate deep as this is liable to damage roots, causes more mois- 
ture loss, and involves more labor. Cultivate shallow. Deep plowing cuts 
off roots and more soil moisture is lost. 
WATERING—in most areas, the garden requires a moisture supply equivalent to about an 
inch of rain a week during the growing season. This is equivalent to about 650 gallons per 1000 
square feet. Thorough soaking once a week is better than more frequent light sprinkling. It is 
usually best to water the garden in the late afternoon and evening, or early morning. 
INSECT AND DISEASE CONTROL —2eing prepared in time with good equipment 
and proper materials is very important in pest control. Dusting is probably more satisfactory 
than spraying for the home gardener. A combined 1% rotenone-copper dust or C.P.R.-copper dust 
applied thoroughly and regularly with a good hand duster will control most insects and diseases 
encountered in the home garden. However, pest control is a big field and it is advisable to get 
detailed information from local agricultural authorities. 
