CHICAGO Anerican Bull Company NEW YORK 
moved periodically. This will be noticed particularly on 
the outside rows when spray type mums are being 
grown. On standards, only one flower is produced per 
stem so that all side shoots should be removed when 
they are long enough to handle conveniently. When the 
flower bud appears at the top of the stem of a stand- 
ard mum it will be surrounded by smaller flower buds. 
These should be removed when of convenient size so 
that the central bud will mature rapidly and be of 
large size. 
Occasionally on standard mums a “crown” bud will 
develop. This is a flower bud which forms in long days 
and is surrounded by vegetative shoots. In most cases 
the crown does not make a desirable flower, hence it 
should be removed and only one strong, straight, vege- 
tative shoot immediately below it should be retained. 
Crown buds are quite apt to appear when the plants 
are pinched too early. 
Some of the larger flowered spray type chrysanthe- 
mums are improved if a few of the flowers are re- 
moved. This adds size and quality to the remaining 
flowers. The larger decorative or anemone types can 
be markedly improved by removing the center flower 
since this “loosens” the spray formation. 
TEMPERATURE 
Although the chrysanthemum flowers in the fall, it 
is not a cool crop as has been believed. Most varieties 
will not form flower buds unless the night temperature 
is 60°F. Therefore, between August 15 and September 
15 when flower bud formation normally takes place, 
it is very important that the night temperature be 
high enough. If the temperature is not sufficiently high, 
the plants will be blind; this is common on late va- 
rieties which form buds late. When flower buds are 
visible, the temperature may be reduced gradually to 
55° or even 50°F. which will enhance the quality of 
most varieties, but delays maturity. Many 13 and 14 
week varieties must be cooled somewhat to develop the 
flowers. Keeping the houses at 45°F. will delay de- 
velopment but quality suffers. In the greenhouse the 
stock may look perfect at such a cold temperature, but 
after it is cut and placed at room temperature it may 
not take up water and deteriorates rapidly. 
LIGHT 
To get the highest quality product, the plants should 
receive as much sunlight as possible. This means that 
no shade should be used on the glass unless the tem- 
perature in the greenhouse becomes unbearable as it 
may in the South. 
Petal burn may be found on soft varieties that flower 
in periods of bright light and this can be prevented by 
placing cheesecloth about two feet above the flowers. 
SUPPORT 
The spray type chrysanthemums are generally sup- 
ported by wires run lengthwise between the rows with 
strings crosswise between the plants. If turnbuckles are 
used to keep the wires tight, only one such set of wires 
and strings is needed providing it is raised periodically 
as the plants grow. Many growers prefer two sets of 
wires and strings. Since the flowers constitute about 
half the weight of the stem, the top set of wires must 
be high enough to prevent lopping. 
Standards can be supported in the same manner as 
described for spray types. Seldom seen are wire or 
bamboo stakes to which the stems are tied loosely 
every 6 to 8 inches. Such stakes are fastened to an 
overhead wire for rigidity. 
When the network of wires and strings are used, they 
can be raised at the end of the crop and used again for 
the following crop. 
VENTILATION 
A light, buoyant atmosphere is the most desirable for 
chrysanthemums. During spring, summer, and early 
fall, the ventilators will be wide open most of the time. 
Side ventilation helps air circulation but is an open in- 
vitation to thrips, grasshoppers, and tarnished plant 
bugs if there are weeds in the vicinity of the green- 
house. 
As cool weather develops, ventilation should be 
reduced somewhat but it is important that there is 
enough “air” to prevent mildew or Botrytis blight 
from developing because of high humidity. 
HUMIDITY 
In summer wetting walks to provide humidity is im- 
portant but in cooler fall weather, this practice should 
be eliminated because of dangers of disease. 
CUTTING FLOWERS 
Most growers wait too long before cutting the stock. 
When the flowers are quite well developed in the 
greenhouse, they have reached their peak and will 
never be as satisfactory for the consumer as stock cut 
slightly on the “green” side. Because there are so many 
varieties, it is difficult to state hard and fast rules. 
However, spray types should be cut when the center 
flower is open and the surrounding flowers are reason- 
ably well developed. If pollen sheds badly as it may 
on some singles, the stems should be cut before this 
occurs. Standard mums should be cut while there are 
still some petals developing in the center. 
Never cut into hard wood because such stems may 
not absorb water satisfactorily. Even if slightly crushed 
with light blows from a hammer, some stems may fail 
to take up water, though this method is usually effec- 
tive. The lower one-third of the foliage should be re- 
moved and the stems are placed in water. Warm water 
(80° to 100°F.) is desirable for rapid “soaking up” but 
the air temperature should be 45° to 50°F. After sev- 
eral hours they may be graded and packed. 
GRADING 
Although there are no universal grades for spray 
types, a 9 oz. bunch is the generally accepted size. 
Since most retailers do not favor bunches with less 
than five stems, growers often try and select uniform 
stems to make a bunch with five stems that weighs 
between 9 and 11 ounces. Where light weight stems 
are being bunched, it may be necessary to place as 
many as 10 to 12 together to meet the 9-ounce require- 
ment. Eye appeal is a controlling factor in sales and 
there must be enough “flower area” in a bunch if it is 
to sell. 
Standard chrysanthemums are generally sold loose, 
but if bunched, the larger sizes should be put together. 
