A.£8.C. Supreme Quality Rected Cultings 
Double pinch — for large specimen plants this system 
is preferred. Plant 3 or 4 cuttings in a 6-inch azalea 
pot and soft pinch after 7 days. Then after 3 weeks 
pinch again so that only 3 leaves remain on each stem. 
Start short days at the time of the second pinch. 
SPACING 
The plants can be grown pot to pot in the early 
stages but as they develop, the pots must be spaced or 
the plants will stretch. Not only does spacing prevent 
legginess but also it allows room for the lower shoots 
to “round out” the plant. 
GARDEN VARIETIES 
For April and May a number of garden varieties can 
be grown and after the flowers have withered, the 
plants can be cut back, separated, and planted in the 
garden where they will flower again in the fall. Pro- 
ducing these is quite simple since lights and shade are 
not needed. Five cuttings from lighted stock plants are 
placed in a 5 or 6-inch pot anytime between February 
1 and March 1. Allow to grow 7 days, then pinch. The 
days will be short enough so that no black cloth is 
necessary. The temperature must be 65°F. until flower 
buds are visible, then it may be dropped between 55° 
and 60°F. Most of the garden varieties are 7 and 8-week 
types and will flower in about 60 days from the pinch 
date. Flowers on these garden types are not as large as 
the regular mum varieties so they should not be dis- 
budded. 
SMALL POT MUMS 
There is ever increasing interest in the flowering of 
chrysanthemums in 3-inch standard or 314-inch azalea 
pots. They are very useful for combination or mixed 
pots which are an important part of spring bedding 
plant sales in many parts of the country. In addition 
there is some interest in selling these as small plants 
for home decoration in place of the larger sizes. 
Immediately after potting, the plants should be soft 
pinched and short day treatment started. By doing this 
the plants are kept short—in proportion to the small 
pot. Many of the 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11-week varieties will 
be suitable for combination pots, but only the shorter 
kinds are suitable as plants for the home. 
Pest Control 
To produce quality chrysanthemums one must 
always be looking for insects and diseases since a crop 
can be seriously damaged or completely ruined in a 
relatively short time. The common insects, diseases 
and allied pests are briefly described and up-to-date 
control measures are presented. 
INSECTS AND ALLIED PESTS 
Aphids 
These are usually black or green and are found on 
the young tender growth. They multiply very rapidly 
and when they get in the unfolding leaves at the shoot 
tip, they are very difficult to completely eradicate. 
Dithio, Malathion, or Parathion bombs are quite 
effective. Malathion, Lindane, or Parathion dusts or 
sprays can also be used. The systemic insecticides ap- 
plied to the soil are relatively slow to act but are highly 
recommended. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM MIDGE 
Galls are formed on the leaves and stems and they 
are about 4% inch long and very prominent. DDT or 
Parathion dusts or sprays will control this pest if sev- 
eral applications are made to keep the new growth 
covered. 
CUTWORMS 
These may be quite troublesome at the time of 
flowering. They are most active at night and may 
escape detection until serious damage has been done. 
DDT, Parathion, and Chlordane are effective for com- 
batting this pest. 
CYCLAMEN MITE 
When the leaves at the stem tip are distorted and 
growth almost ceases, it is usually indicative that mites 
are present. They are too small to be seen without the 
aid of a strong magnifying glass. Parathion sprays di- 
rected into the stem tips is an effective control as are 
the systemic insecticides. 
FOLIAR NEMATODE 
This is a relative of the root-knot nematode but it 
inhabits the aerial portions of the plant. It moves from 
leaf to leaf through films of moisture and the damage 
appears as wedge shaped brown areas between the 
veins of the leaf. The leaf or foliar nematode is too 
small to be seen except with the aid of a microscope. 
Keeping the foliage dry prevents their spread but 
may not be a practical means of control. Parathion 
sprays are best but several applications are necessary. 
GRASSHOPPERS 
Chlordane, Aldrin, or Dieldrin are highly effective. 
LEAF MINER 
These are small insects which feed inside the leaf 
tissues and as they travel within, a light greenish- 
yellow colored area is very noticeable. Parathion dusts 
or sprays or systemic insecticides are effective. 
LEAF ROLLER 
The worms or caterpillars which feed on the under- 
side of the foliage leaving a transparent film of the 
upper surface of the leaf is indicative that leaf tiers or 
rollers are present. DDT, Malathion, or Parathion are 
useful if applied before the insect rolls the leaves to- 
gether to form a coccoon. 
MEALYBUGS 
Although the damage they cause is minor, the masses 
of grayish white bugs are unsightly. The natural pro- 
tective hairy covering makes control of the older 
mealybugs quite difficult. Young ones are killed by re- 
peated use of Parathion, Dithio, or Malathion. 
RED SPIDER 
The mottled condition of the foliage is too well 
known to require further description. Many insecti- 
cides have been made to combat this pest and the use 
of more than one kind is suggested to avoid develop- 
ment of “resistant” strains. 
Aramite, Malathion, Parathion, Chlorobenzilate, and 
