PRUNING 
Your roses have been pruned by our experienced packers. 
But after planting them, cut them back to six inches from the 
union. This method causes them to branch neat the ground 
and to grow into well balanced, sturdy bushes. 
So many methods of pruning established rose bushes are 
advocated that it is impossible to establish a set of general 
rules. We advise you to prune 
Pp R ses to your own satisfaction. How- 
rune O ever, it is best to cut below a 
foot from the ground. Polyan- 
thas and Floribundas may be 
pruned lower, of course. Climb- 
ers may be thinned by remov- 
ing the weaker canes. If they 
must be pruned to keep them 
within prescribed limit, it 
should be done early enough 
so that the new growth will be 
ready for spring blooming. 
Hybrid-Perpetuals may be 
pruned in a similar way. We 
See nT try to prune our bushes just 
IL * WK before the spring growth be- 
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WATERING 
Roses, like most other plants, do best in good soil, with 
plenty of moisture, but they do not need excessive watering. 
Always soak the ground to the lowest roots by running a 
trickle of water from a hose or a soil soaker. Sprinkling 
spreads black spot fungi and encourages mildew in humid 
weather. 
FERTILIZATION 
Soils vary in fertility so much that it is not possible to 
establish a general rule. Perhaps nothing is better than well- 
rotted cattle manure for both humus and plant food. How- 
ever certain soils may be deficient in trace minerals, which the 
better brands of chemical fertilizers have. It is always well 
to consult local agricultural and horticultural people about 
your fertilizer problems. When you fertilize, follow directions 
carefully; don’t use too much and damage your plants. 
CULTIVATION 
Avoid deep cultivation but keep the ground loose to a 
depth of 114 inches, and during hot, dry weather keep a dust 
mulch about your plants. A better method of mulching is to 
use peat moss, dry grass cuttings, cotton burrs, cottonseed 
hulls, grain hulls. These mulches will hold moisture in the soil 
and will eventually improve the soil as they decay. 
WINTER PROTECTION 
Very little protection is needed in the South unless the 
winter is unusually severe. On the other hand roses need to 
be protected in the North by hilling soil 10 inches high about 
the plants. The spaces between hills should be filled in with 
straw or hay. Remove mounds of soil just before the spring 
growth is due. Take tender climbing roses off the trellises, 
wrap them in straw and protect as bush roses. 
INSECTS AND DISEASES 
Black spot and mildew are the worst enemies of your roses 
but both can be prevented or controlled with a good fungi- 
cide. It is best to prevent rather than to undertake a cure. 
Dust or spray with your favorite fungicide regularly, follow- 
ing directions on the package. 
At the first sign of insect damage, begin spraying or dust- 
ing with a good insecticide and continue as long as there is - 
danger of an infestation. If your dealer can not supply you 
with fungicides and insecticides, call on us and we will supply 
you with our best products. 
Buy the best plants you can secure and keep them healthy. 
They will repay you with great beauty in which you will take 
a deep pride. 
For further information write us or call on the Agricultural 
Agent. for your locality, your Agricultural Colleges, the State 
or National Departments of Agriculture. We especially refer 
you to THE AMERICAN ROSE SOCIETY of. Harrisburg, 
Pennsylvania, from which you can secure invaluable infoma- 
tion, 
THE PLANTING AND CARE OF TREES 
Trees reed room to grow into the form and beauty that 
nature designed for them. Visualize the trees you are plant- 
ing, ten, twenty, fifty years from now. Have you given them 
room to grow into the great, spreading trees you desire for 
your pleasure ey that of those who will inherit your estate? 
Like other plants, trees 
need soil as is adapted tc PLANTING IN 
their particular requirements. Bape a Tf 2... tl... 
Poor aa can be greatly im- EXTRA Large Hole ! 
proved by adding humus . 
and water, along with the 7 
best of fertilizers, thus creat- 
ing a favorable environment 
for trees. Good trees need 
and deserve good ground. 
Unwrap your trees as soon 
as you receive them, moisten 
the roots and cover them 
with wet burlap or newspap- 
er. If they are not to be 
planted at once, heel them in 5 
the ground at a 45 degree 
angle, soaking the ground wm, * 
about the roots with water. s 
Dig holes large enough 
and deep enough so that the 
roots will have ample room 
to grow. Set the trees about 
one inch deeper than they 
grew in the nursery. Tramp 
the dirt about the roots as 
you fill the hole. When the 
hole is about half filled, soak 
with water. Then finish fill- 
ing, make a low ridge about 
the hole and fill the result- 
ant basin with water until 
the ground is thoroughly 
soaked. Afterward, keep the 
ground moist. 
Trees need food. Well- 
rotted manure or other or- 
ganic fertilizers may be added to the soil. Chemical fertilizers 
should be applied in a shallow trench at the edge of the filled 
hole, watered down and covered by filling the trench. Follow 
directions on fertilizer packages. Do not use too much; 
The chief objective in pruning is to develop a well bal- 
anced, symmetrical growth. Small trees sometimes are not 
branched when you receive them. Cut them back to. the 
point where you wish the lowest branches to grow. As your 
trees grow prune only when it is necessary to shape them to 
your fancy. There are bulletins and tree service agencies from 
which you can secure a wealth of information about tree 
pruning. 
PLANTING DISTANCES 
Peach and Plum, 20 to 25 feet 
Pear, 25 to 30 feet 
Pecan and Walnut, 40 to 60 feet 
Strawberries, 1 foot apart in beds or rows. 
Texas Everbearing Figs, 12 to 15 feet 
Grapes, 6 to 8 feet 
Plant rtmerical 
TYLER, TEXAS 
P. O. BOX 450 PHONE 4-7421 
